Author: fitz

Day 8: Torrington Brushes: Glue Brushes & Chip Brushes

Another big step forward for our shop this year has been switching to Torrington brushes for gluing and for our chip brushes. Torrington is a small Florida company that makes excellent brushes and carries some really good imported ones. We are eager to try other brushes in the Torrington line, but haven’t yet had the chance.

I love the Small Round Torrington Glue Brushes. We use the two smaller sizes (Nos. 2 and 4). They have survived hundreds of uses and cleanings in our dishwasher. These brushes are about 19 times better than the acid flux brushes we used to use (anyone need a gross of acid flux brushes? Cheap?)

Megan loves the Best Quality Bristle Paint / Chip Brushes because they shed far less than most chip brushes, and they’re of good enough quality to hold up through repeated use and washing (but cheap enough to offer to students as needed, without worrying that it will get inadvertently tossed).

– Chris

Day 7: Purified/refined Linseed Oil

Finishing has gotten a lot easier here now that we have switched to raw linseed oil that has been purified/refined. These oils are lighter than your hardware store linseed oil, they dry fast and they don’t have any heavy metallic driers. You can use them on their own or in making your own finishes (such as soft wax or our “shop finish,” which is equal parts varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits).

We have used four brands that we can recommend. There are others out there, we just haven’t tried them.

• Viking Purified Linseed Oil from Earth+Flax
• Heron Paints Purified Linseed Oil
• Möbelolja from Selder & Company
• Allbäck Purified Raw Linseed Oil from Sage Restoration

This endorsement isn’t a knock against the other brands. As I said, we just haven’t tried them. No matter which brand you choose, you will be thrilled with this lighter oil in comparison to the stuff from the hardware store, which is gummy and thick in comparison.

– Chris

Day 5: Hans Karlsson & Jason Lonon Scorps/Inshaves

Good scorps/inshaves are expensive and difficult to come by. Most of the used and discount scorps I’ve seen are not worth messing with. I’ve tried grinding them and even cold-bending their handles in an effort to make them work. Most times the old tool simply wasn’t made for chairmaking and it will fight you at every stroke.

I’ve been a long-time fan of Lucien Avery’s inshave. It’s what I use on every chair seat. It’s the perfect shape for the shallow saddle of a stick chair. It has a long flat area in the middle with curved bits at the ends. The typical Dunbar-style scorp (which is circular) is difficult to use with stick chairs. (I know this because this is what I used for many years.)

So I offer up these two other options. They aren’t as perfect as the Lucien Avery, but the waiting list is always smaller.

The Hans Karlsson inshave is excellent. Almost as good as the Avery. It has the blade shape I prefer and the handles are quite comfortable. It’s heavier than the Avery, which makes it more tiring to use. But otherwise it is completely excellent. The inshave isn’t available right now, but I’m sure they will make more. There are also retailers for the company that carry the inshave, so it’s worth looking around.

The Jason Lonon scorp/inshave also works well for saddling stick chairs. I wish the middle part of the blade were flatter, but it works well when making a stick chair. The Lonon (also currently sold out) is the prettiest scorp I’ve ever seen. The fit and finish are top-notch, and so is the steel. 

Eventually the world will have a steady supply of inshaves and scorps. But not today apparently.

– Chris