To develop a good eye for chairmaking (or spoon carving or alligator wrestling), you need to study as many chairs as possible. Do it until your eyes glaze over.
Here’s a set of nice “Spinnstuhls” compiled by Rudy Everts in Bavaria. These so-called sewing chairs are from southern Germany and the Alps. These chairs are interesting to me in several ways. Some have a traditional undercarriage for chairs from this region – radical rake and splay, legs that taper to the floor, battens to thicken the seat – but some do not.
Check out the bent legs on a couple examples. A good guess is these came from a bent section of the tree, perhaps a branch or from the root section of a trunk.
Also, the variety of uppercarriages is fascinating. Some are joined, some look sawn from solid and some look bent.
Look through the gallery. Zoom in. Class dismissed.
Building a hayrake table. Killer joinery (exposed tenons with trapped, scribed shoulders; bridle joints; cool geometry), carving lambs’ tongues, decorative gouging and inlaid butterfly keys—all at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking.
Laying out a lamb’s tongueCutting one exposed tenon with shoulders scribed to a curved stretcher is fun. Cutting a pair when the shoulders are trapped between stretchers at a fixed length is a challenge.Preparing to trim a stretcher tenon
At the end of six days you’ll go home with a table–or, depending on your proficiency and other variables, you’ll at least go home with parts of the table ready for you to finish working on them, and you will be familiar with the techniques required to complete the build.
The class will run from July 8-13 (six days) and students are encouraged to build their table to their own dimensions. You can bring your own lumber or buy it before the start of class at Edensaw Woods.
If you didn’t get a chance to purchase one of the Crucible curved card scrapers, you can make your own with a dry grinder and an existing card scraper. It takes about 30 minutes.
Download and print out the following template. It’s a hand-drawn version of Chris Williams’s scraper, which is where our design started.
Cut it out and affix it to your card scraper with the help of spray adhesive. Or make a cardboard template and trace its shape on your scraper with a permanent marker.
At your grinder, set the tool rest to 0° – parallel to the floor. Dress the wheel of your grinder (we use an #80-grit wheel, but a #60 or #100 will also do) so it has a slight convex shape. This convexity in the wheel makes the scraper easier to shape.
Get a bucket of water and put it by the grinder.
(Hey wait, where are the step photos? I’m in a hotel room that’s 400 miles from my shop. You are going to have to use your imagination.)
Place the scraper on the tool rest and start grinding the excess metal away. Don’t work on one part of the scraper for more than a few seconds. Keep moving around the perimeter. After 10 or 15 seconds, try to pinch the scraper with a finger and thumb. If….
… you can pinch the scraper with no pain, continue to grind.
… your fingers reflexively jump away, cool the scraper in your water bucket.
… you smell bacon, also cool the scraper in the water bucket.
Once you have ground down to your line, you will have become pretty good at grinding flat shapes – congrats. Now you need to remove the grinder marks from the edges.
Use a block of wood to hold the scraper at 90° on a coarse diamond stone and stone the edges. Remove all the scratches from the grinder. Then move up to a #1,000-grit waterstone (or soft Arkansas) and then up to a polishing stone. Then you can proceed with normal scraper-sharpening procedures.
This is exactly how I made all of our prototypes. I promise that you will become emotionally involved with your scraper after putting all the work into it, and you might not ever want to buy one of ours.
You can now purchase the Williams Welsh Card Scraper in the Crucible store. It is $20 plus shipping and is available for immediate shipment.
The scraper is named after Chris Williams, a Welsh chairmaker who first showed us this shape in 2018. While there are many custom scraper shapes out there for specialty work (especially scraping mouldings) Chris’s scraper was the first shape we’ve seen that is ideal for scraping both flat and curved surfaces.
We think it’s a huge improvement compared to the typical square-cornered rectangular scraper sold today. Here’s why:
The gentle curves of its cutting edges mean that you don’t have to bend the tool with your thumbs to scrape a flat surface – the curve is built-in. That makes our scraper much easier to use. (Side note: many woodworkers with arthritis who cannot use a rectangular scraper report that they can use our scraper.) Here are the tool’s other features.
It is made from 1095 spring steel that has been hardened and tempered to a Rockwell (C) hardness of 48 to 51. This hardness makes it easy to turn a hook with a standard burnisher (though carbide is always the superior choice for a burnisher) and the hook lasts plenty long.
The faces are polished and blued for rust-resistance.
The scraper is cut to shape using waterjet – both for precision and to preserve the hardness of the steel. Then the tool’s edges are hand ground and polished in Nicholasville, Ky., to make the tool easy to set up and maintain.
The scraper comes with a magnet, which acts as a heat sink while scraping, making the tool comfortable to use for long periods.
The tool is supplied with a heavy paper envelope that is perfect for storing the scraper, protecting its edges while it’s sitting in your tool chest or cabinet.
Sharpening the Williams Welsh Card Scraper is as simple as sharpening a rectangular tool. (We’ve prepared a tutorial here.) In fact, I think our tool is a bit easier to sharpen than a flat-edged scraper, especially when stoning the edges.
Like all Crucible tools, the Williams Welsh Card Scraper is made entirely in the United States with domestic materials. You can purchase one here.
This finished version of the braid can be further cleaned up with light cuts of the gouge, or left as-is. There’s a wide spectrum of what works with this carving.
This is an excerpt from “Joiner’s Work” by Peter Follansbee.
The bottom margin, the angled strike of the #7 gouge, the horizontal centerline and the punched mark just to the right of the gouge cut – the foundation for this pattern.
A braided pattern builds on the previous example (of the gouge cut). It’s cut with the same technique, but this time, for those who like measuring stuff, it is marked out in a measured spacing. For the braid, the layout is the key.
Start by striking the bottom margin with a marking gauge. Then use 3/4″ #7 gouge and strike it just as in the first exercise, only now the incised cut is not perpendicular to the margin, but tilts a little to the right. The top of this incised cut shows where to strike the horizontal centerline. Mark that line, then strike a round punch just to the right of the gouge cut. My round punch is an old 5/32″ nail set.
Now mark the height of the top margin, making it the same distance off the horizontal centerline as the bottom margin. It’s simple really. Strike the gouge from the other side of the punched dot, aiming in the other direction. Its tilt angle is fixed by the margin/centerline spacing.
Now it’s automatic pilot. Position the gouge between the punched mark and the margin and go.
With a compass, pace off the spacing of the punched marks on the centerline. These are either the width of the gouge or just a bit more.
Once they’re stepped off, strike each of these with the punch. Bang, bang, bang. Then, take the gouge and strike all the cuts that go down to the left of the punched marks, then those that go up to the right. It’s very orderly.
All struck, the design almost could stop right there and look just fine. But keep going.
Fiddle around with your spacing on some scrap. You can do it on paper, but you might as well just start working it on wood. It only takes a few minutes. The amount of tilt to the design is determined by the spacing between the centerline and margins, the size of the gouge(s) and the paced-off punch marks. Too steep looks dull; leaned over too far looks stretched out. You’ll know it when you see it.
Now it’s starting to look like something. Shadows start to make things look better.
Now go back and remove the chip. This chip is shorter in length than what you just did above. Think fingernail parings, crescent moons, that sort of stuff.
Using the same gouge, extend the arcs from the margin curving down into the neighboring cuts. Repeat this at the top and bottom margin.
This step begins connecting each element.
Now using the narrow #5 gouge, just take its corner and nick the small area from the margins to the curved cuts. You’re just taking a small chip out here; but it helps. The cut comes from the margin in toward the previous gouge cuts.
The beginning of hollowing. It’s quite a scoop, and a quick turn for the gouge.
You can enhance this carving by hollowing the braid with a more deeply curved gouge (mine’s an antique, similar to a #8 in the Swiss numbering system), modeling the overall pattern. To do this, you need to be aware of grain direction. Start at the centerline and cut down to the left, and repeat this all down the line. Then turn around and work up and to the right. The gouge takes quite a turn in each cut – essentially 90° in a very short space. Hollowing the braid really makes it come to life, creating more light and shadow interplay; that’s what all this carving is about.
