This morning I completed installing the new leg vise on my Holtzapffel workbench that is powered by the Benchcrafted Classic Vise and Crisscross. Installation took about four hours – spread out over the week – and was straightforward thanks to the crazy high quality of the Benchcrafted components and the excellent installation instructions.
The new vise set-up is remarkable. I’ve never had a leg vise that works so well.
While the installation was simple, it’s not for the bolt-it-and-go crowd. You need to be on your A-game to get the vise to run smoothly. The mechanism has plenty of “forgiveness” for small inaccuracies. But everything will go together with less frustration if you take your time and pay close attention to the details.
I’ll be interested to see how the mechanism fares in the long haul. So there’s only one way to find out: Get back to work.
Next up: a shelf for the Holtzapffel and an almost-vanished tool from the 16th century.
— Christopher Schwarz
P.S. Read our Lost Art Press Statement of Ethics for information on how we buy our tools.
P.P.S The music is “Vernon Jackson” by The Brought Low.
Consists of a platform A B C D called the top, supported upon four legs, E, F, G, H. Near to the further or fore end A B is an upright rectangular prismatic pin a, made to slide stiffly in a mortise through the top. This pin is called the bench hook, which ought to be so tight as to be moved up or down only by a blow of a hammer or mallet. The use of the bench hook is to keep the stuff steady, while the joiner, in the act of planing, presses it forward against the bench hook.
a, the “bench hook”
D I a vertical board fixed to the legs, on the side of the bench next to the workman, and made flush with the legs: this is called the side board.
D I, the side board
At the farther end of the side board, and opposite to it, and to the bench hook, is a rectangular prismatic piece of wood b b (Editor’s note: this is likely an error as the plate is labeled d d), of which its two broad surfaces are parallel to the vertical face of the side board: this is made moveable in a horizontal straight surface, by a screw passing through an interior screw fixed to the inside of the side board, and is called the screw check (Editor’s note: sic. “Check” is correct). The screw and screw check are together called the bench screw; and for the sake of perspicuity, we shall denominate the two adjacent vertical surfaces of the screw check, and of the side board, the checks of the bench screw.
d d, the screw check
The use of the bench screw is to fasten boards between the checks, in order to plane their edges; but as it only holds up one end of a board, the leg H of the bench and the side board are pierced with holes, so as to admit of a pin for holding up the other end, at various heights, as occasion may require. The screw check has also a horizontal piece mortised and fixed fast to it, and made to slide through the side board, for preventing it turning round, and is therefore called the guide.
H, the leg pierced with holes
Benches are of various heights, to accommodate the height of the workman, but the medium is about two feet eight inches. They are ten or twelve feet in length, and about two feet six inches in width. Sometimes the top boards upon the farther side are made only about ten feet long, and that next the workman twelve feet, projecting two feet at the hinder part. In order to keep the bench and work from tottering, the legs, not less than three inches and a half square, should be well braced, particularly the two legs on the working side. The top board next to the workman may be from one and a half to two inches thick: the thicker, the better for the work; the boards to the farther side may be about an inch, or an inch and a quarter thick. If the workman stands on the working side of the bench, and looks across the bench, then the end on his right hand is called the hind end, and that on his left hand the fore end. The bench hook is sometimes covered with an iron plate, the front edge of which is formed into sharp teeth for sticking fast into the end of the wood to be planed, in order to prevent it from slipping; or, instead of a plate, nails are driven obliquely through the edge, and filed into wedge-formed points. Each pair of end legs are generally coupled together by two rails dovetailed into the legs. Between each pair of coupled legs, the length of the bench is generally divided into three or four equal parts, and transverse bearers fixed at the divisions to the side boards, the upper sides being flush with those of the side boards, for the purpose of supporting the top firmly, and keeping it from bending. The screw is placed behind the two fore legs, the bench hook immediately before the bearers of the fore legs, and the guide at some distance before the bench hook. For the convenience of putting things out of the way, the rails at the ends are covered with boards; and for farther accommodation, there is in some benches a cavity, formed by boarding the under edges of the side boards before the hind legs, and closing the ends vertically, so that this cavity is contained between the top and the boarding under the side boards; the way to it is by an aperture made by sliding a part of the top board towards the hind end: this deposit is called a locker.
— Peter Nicholson, “The Mechanic’s Companion; or, the elements of and practice of carpentry, joinery, bricklaying, masonry, slating, plastering, painting, smithing and turning…” (1811). The image is from my 1845 edition, published by John Locken, Philadelphia. The entire book can be downloaded and read for free on Google Books via this link.
Jameel Abraham at Benchcrafted has been scouting in Georgia to see if there’s enough massive old French oak to put on another French Oak Roubo Project (aka FORP) in fall 2015.
Jameel’s account of his visit to Georgia with photos of big oak can be found here.
If Jameel and Bo Childs do manage to organize a second French Oak Roubo Project, you can bet I will be there to take another chance to work with this amazing material. It is more akin to timber-framing and is both exhausting and exhilarating. The size of the material makes every construction step a challenge.
After last year’s event, I have come up with some techniques to make construction easier and the joinery more precise. So I want another wack.
Stay tuned to this blog and the Benchcrafted blog for details on this event.
While Jameel was in Georgia, he also got to inspect a Féron & Cieworkbench that Childs imported from France. Féron, which branded its products “a la La Forge Royale,” produced tools and workbenches in France.
You can download an early 20th-century Féron & Cie catalog here:
This workbench has some interesting details to consider if you have a workbench on the drawing board.
1. No flush surfaces. One of the most striking things about the bench is that the stretchers, front legs and benchtop are not in the same plane (a feature common on earlier French benches). The benches in the catalog are drawn similarly, so I don’t think this one is a fluke.
Make what you will of it. I suspect the non-flush surfaces made the bench easier to manufacture. Personally, I want all those surfaces in the same plane to make clamping doors and long boards a lot easier.
2. A splined or tenoned slab benchtop. One of the details from Jameel’s photos is that the slab benchtop is in (at least) two pieces. Along the seam there are pegs. My suspicion (and Jameel’s) is that there is a spline or loose-tenon in there, and the pegs keep everything together and aligned.
English benchbuilder Richard Maguire uses a similar detail on his benchtops, and he drawbores the loose tenon to keep the seam shut. After talking to maguire and seeing the detail on this Féron bench, I am itching to try it on a future workbench.
3. It’s a knockdown design. The top can be removed from the Féron bench. The top sits on tenons on the legs and is secured with a threaded wooden post.
After looking at the joinery in Jameel’s other photos, I am wondering (but am not convinced yet) if the bench was sent to the customer in pieces and the customer glued up the bits to the base and then attached the top. That is how I’d do it. And it’s how Plate 11 Bench Co. does it. But this is speculation only.
4. Nails in the planing stop. This feature shows up on old benches in place of an iron toothed stop. The benches in the Féron catalog show a planing stop that is just a shaft of wood. No nails. No toothed stop as best I can tell.
5. A simple parallel guide. The parallel guide in the leg vise is held in the chop with an open notch. This is a time-saving feature for the builder.
Thanks to Jameel for the photos and background information on this important bit of bench-building history.
If weasels, doughnuts and diseases can have an official day, then why not the jack plane? I’d be hard-pressed to name a plane that is more useful to me (the block plane would be in second place).
My $12 jack has a heavily cambered iron. And yes, I still use the plane’s original iron and chipbreaker. In fact, except for the engraving, my jack is all factory equipment.
The engraving, which was done by Catherine Kennedy, has elicited some surprising comments from students. But my favorite one – and the dude was dead serious – was this:
“It was lucky that you found a plane that has that square already engraved on it.”
Today I’m working more on installing the Benchcrafted Crisscross and Classic vise on my Holtzapffel workbench, which lives in our sunroom. I’m taking this opportunity to make some long-time-coming modifications to this workhorse of a bench.
1. Tweaking the vise’s screw blocks for the twin screw so they cannot be pulled forward of the benchtop. This involved some planing, tweaking and shimming. And without the jack plane the process would have been a chore.
2. Adding the leg vise, which will be swappable with the twin-screw.
3. Adding a long-overdue shelf between the stretchers.
4. Adding some additional holdfast holes and (perhaps) a little tallow dispenser below the benchtop.
5. Finally, toothing the benchtop with a toothing plane and enduring the slings and arrows of internet idiots when I do it.
When I installed my first woodworking vise, the only instructions were a grease-stained diagram without words. Just a crude drawing that was anti-helpful and full of errors.
After installing and helping to install a lot of Benchcrafted hardware on student benches, I can attest that this company has some of the best instructions in the business. They are on par with the outstanding Leigh manuals. I’ve had to learn to use Leigh jigs for tool reviews and they are the finest instructions I’ve ever seen for any device.
The Benchcrafted instructions are clear, concise and accurate. They were written by woodworkers and it shows. If you have ever thought you couldn’t install a Benchcrafted Tail Vise or Glide, check out their free downloadable manuals. Read them through and you’ll be on your way.
I took a break this morning from editing Peter Galbert’s book and finished up the mortise in my vise chop for the Benchcrafted Crisscross. After following the directions, the castings dropped right into place like a rectangular peg in a rectangular hole.
Sweet. Now back to editing Galbert’s book. Almost done! Then it is onto the page-design phase.
