Category: Dutch Tool Chests

Most of the classes I teach involve at least one moment of fear for me, and that’s when I lend students my 3/16″ Philly Planes beading plane. I love this plane, and love to put a bead on just about everything. Once you try one, you can’t stop! I’d be bereft without this tool.

A bead not only dresses up the edge of the board, it creates a shadowline and makes a small gap look intentional (think backboards). And, it helps to protect a fragile corner by removing a bit that might otherwise break off (say, at the top edge the top skirt of an Anarchist’s tool chest, where the lid drops down over and over).

But a beading plane is a bit of a delicate tool. If you don’t drop the plane back into the cut properly, it’s easy to snap off the boxing. And it’s best to use a light and gentle touch. In my experience, both of these can be difficult for new woodworkers; the tendency is to push too hard (think starting a saw cut) and to attack the work.

But I want students to experience the joy a simple bead can bring; a few passes with the plane, et voilà – now your project is fancy! So I demonstrate the use several times, make sure the plane is properly set, issue dire warnings about what will happen to a student if they break my plane (1), then clench my teeth and hand over the tool.

So far, I’ve been lucky – no breaks. And lots of happy faces when the students cut their first beads. (And I hope a run of sales on beading planes.)

Sure, I have other beaders (because you can’t have just one – and beading planes lead to the acquisition of more moulding planes, then a few hollows and rounds, then…), but this is the tool amongst them that I like the best – not only because it was my first, but because it gives me the least trouble in a classroom setting, usually keeping its setting through six new users. (Note: Other beaders – Bickford, Old Street Tool, Caleb James, Red Rose, Clark & Williams – are excellent; this particular Philly Planes tool is simply the one with which I’ve had the most success while teaching.)

Below are a few paragraphs and photos from my book “Dutch Tool Chests” on how to use this plane, in this case for the bottom lip of the chest, onto which the fall front gets dropped over and over.

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A beading plane (and all moulding planes) work best on only one corner of a board: the corner on which the grain is rising out on both faces in the direction of the cut (the plane cuts in only one direction).

Moulding planes also work better in softwoods.

But know that you can often get away with breaking the bead rules – especially in mild grain and softer hardwoods, such as walnut and cherry.

So give it a go no matter your species – and if it looks terrible (i.e., it tears out), turn that ugly bead into a nice chamfer with a block plane. Or just start (and finish) with a chamfer if you’re going for a more utilitarian look (or don’t have a beading plane).

Identify the lip’s best corner (if you’re beading), then clamp the workpiece to your bench in an end vise or wagon vise, or use a sticking board. Bead the edge.

Hold the plane perpendicular to the work, with the iron on the wood and the fence pressed to the edge of the workpiece (it’s easy to get the position wrong and push the plane’s fragile boxing into the wood). Your right hand’s job is to push forward. Your left hand’s job is to hold the plane at the correct angle, and in contact with the workpiece from above and below the tool.

Push forward, following through on the cut. Keep the plane in the cut (2), pull straight back, then push forward again. Repeat until the depth stop contacts the wood and the plane stops cutting. Be careful as you pull back; that boxing can easily break off if you stress it by pulling sideways.

After the plane stops cutting, you might notice some fuzzy bits in the quirk; grab a handful of the plane shavings to burnish those away.

– Fitz

(1) They will have to watch me cry; no one wants that.
(2) Once you have a few beads under your belt, it’s OK to lift the tool and reposition it at the start of the cut…but make sure you get the fence in the correct position so as not to A) break your plane’s boxing and B) ruin your bead.

Order “Dutch Tool Chests” (by me!) by 11:59 p.m. Wednesday, Dec. 11, to get a free pdf with your book order. Until then, the book and pdf is $39. At midnight on Wednesday, the pdf will cost $9.75 extra if ordered with the printed book.

“Dutch Tool Chests” gives you the in-depth instruction you need to build your own slant-lid tool chest (in two sizes) – from choosing materials, to the joinery, the hardware, the interior parts that hold your tools and the paint. Plus, plans for a mobile base that provides more storage and helps you move the chest around your shop. (Oh – and a brain dump on how to cut through-dovetails – the thing I most often teach.)

My goal in this book is to not only help you make a place to put your stuff, but to help make you a better hand-tool woodworker.

But my favorite part of the book is the gallery, which includes 43 chests from other makers, with ingenious ideas for using the chest’s tool bay (or bays). Clever rolling bases. Oversized (or undersized) chests. Imaginative uses of the back of the fall front and or/underside of the lid. And other unique storage solutions and uses that set them apart.

Like all Lost Art Press books, “Dutch Tool Chests” is printed in the United States. The pages are folded into signatures, sewn, glued and reinforced with fiber-based tape to create a permanent binding. The 192-page interior attached to heavy (98-pt.) cotton-covered boards (blue cloth, of course!) using a thick paper hinge. The cover and spine are adorned with a foil die stamp (which won’t help you build a tool chest – but it looks pretty nice, if I do say so myself!).

– Fitz

p.s. If you buy “Dutch Tool Chests” from Lost Art Press, you might wonder about that scribble on the half-title or title page. That illegible scrawl really is my signature – I’m signing every copy that ships from our Covington warehouse.

This is a an excerpt from Megan Fitzpatrick’s new book “Dutch Tool Chests.” I have been looking forward to its release for some time now and have finally had a chance to read through it. It is incredibly beautiful, which may not always be an applicable word for an instructional book, and clearly written. I appreciate this as one who is not a regular woodworker.

I will include bits of the instructional parts in later excerpts but for now I want to show off some fun pictures of Dutch tool chests that were submitted by LAP friends and readers. The options of how to make your tool chest more versatile seem endless after looking at these…not to mention some of the paint jobs! I only picked three at random but there are quite a few in the book to drool over.

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I consider what I’ve presented in the preceding chapters to be the “base model” of the Dutch tool chest form – the Toyota Corolla, if you will. It will last you forever as-is, but might not be as comfortable in the long run as you’d desire.

This Dutch chest form is highly adaptable to different storage needs, sizes and aesthetics. And it sometimes serves, as you’ll see herein, as inspiration for variations that are at times but loosely inspired by the basic form.

I could not possibly cover all the possible storage options, bases, sizes, colors, wood choices and other creative decisions made by others who’ve built or adapted this form. So, I invited people to submit pictures of their chests, with detail pictures of their upgrades and clever ideas.

I present to you in the following pages as many of those as is practical – but without repeating too much of the same (I hope). But it turns out that many great minds think alike. So if you sent me pictures and I didn’t use them here, please know that I appreciate your submissions. It’s likely your chest isn’t blue, so I chose not to include it (just kidding). More likely is that the images simply weren’t large enough to use in print, or that there weren’t enough of them. But know that I nonetheless enjoyed seeing your work; I’m sorry if I couldn’t share it.

I hope the chests that follow (in no particular order) inspire you to build a Dutch tool chest and make it your own.

Jonathan Schneider

The chest is built from local (to Berlin) pine; the unpainted pieces are beech. There are pegged breadboard ends on the lid and fall front, and the dovetailed tray pulls out for easy access.

Michael McCormick

McCormick’s walnut chest was made from “rough lumber, pretty much 90-percent unplugged,” he wrote. “It was exhausting.” Why the fancy wood? Because he had no climate-controlled shop space, McCormick’s chest lived in his family’s home office, where it needed to blend in as a piece of furniture.

The hardware is by John Switzer at Black Bear Forge.

Olivia Bradley

The Dutch tool chest is the perfect size for Bradley’s small shop; she’s customized the interior to hold a lot in the chest’s relatively small footprint – but the interior is still flexible enough that she can stock it as needed for various classes. The elastic bands on the lid and fall front, which can be used for a number of tools, are inspired by toolmaker Liam Rickerby, who ships his winding sticks corralled by bands.

“When I got back from a stick chair class” at Lost Art Press writes Bradley, “I finally finished the cart to go under the Dutch tool chest. I needed a place to put [more] stickers.”