One of the interesting forms I didn’t get to discuss in “Campaign Furniture,” is the portable library writing table. It’s typically a three-piece affair – the desktop lifts off the two pedestals for travel.
The version shown above is from the 1907 Army & Navy Co-Operative Society catalog, though the form appears over and over again in many of the catalogs.
It also appears as a reproduction at times. And this form is the ancestor of the modern campaign desk that is shown on sawhorses at Pottery Barn etc.
Mark Firley at The Furniture Record shows a particularly nice antique version in his blog today. The top surface of the desk tilts, there is a secretary gallery and the drawers in the pedestal units are protected by drawers. Check it out here.
And by the way, free domestic shipping for “Campaign Furniture” ends on Saturday. So if you were waiting to hide the charge on your April statement….
There has been a good deal for some time past spoken and written about the education of the workman, but technical knowledge is not all that our artisans require. The use and abuse of tools is a subject of great importance, yet we hear no one essaying to say a few plain words upon the topic.
There are many workmen who probably pride themselves upon the knowledge of their trade, and who, with a compass, rule, and square, may be able to draw a number of lines and curves occurring in the setting out of their work. Even a little geometrical knowledge is useful; yet a little more attention on the part of these same workmen to the use and condition of their tools would be highly desirable.
If we take the case of a cabinet-maker or joiner, who generally requires to have a good “kit” of bench or workshop tools at least, it will be usually found that, for the one workman who keeps his tools in a proper and serviceable condition, there will be three who will be perfectly careless about the appearance of the tools that they are using. A workman who has a good basket of tools, pertinently observes a writer in the Irish Builder, will find more favour with those employing him than those who have not a presentable set of tools.
Planes, the wooden part as well as the cutting irons, should be kept in clean condition. In grinding and sharpening tools there is much to learn by many workmen, notwithstanding their constant use. Chisels and gouges should have firm and well-formed handles, and the heads of the handles should not show a battered and ragged appearance. Handsaws and other saws should not be allowed to be buckled in the blades, and good setting and careful filing are indispensable.
Without going through the list, it may be at once boldly said, that the character and ability of a workman may be known by the state of his tools. A workman who does not take a pleasure in keeping his tools in good order will not take a pleasure in executing his work. In fact, no workman can perform good workmanship with a bad set of tools.
There is an old proverb which says that “good tools are half the work,” which means, that a workman with good tools and knowing how to use them will get through his work in half the time that he would with indifferent tools—and so he would. But good tools, at the same time, in the hands of a bad workman or botch will not effect much for him. There is an art in using tools deftly, and this art is part of the skilled labour that constitutes the competent workman.
Glueing.
The right sort of glue to use for ordinary work is “best Scotch” (inferior kinds are often adulterated with lime). This glue is sold at all good tool shops; but if it cannot be obtained, choose the most transparent cakes. For fine work in light-coloured woods, Salisbury glue may be used; this is made in thin cakes, and is of a clear amber colour.
Preparation of the glue. Break it into small pieces with the hammer, and soak for at least twelve hours in sufficient water to keep it covered even when swollen by the water it absorbs: this water must be cold. It is no use attempting to melt glue by putting it into hot water; it will always be stringy, and give endless trouble. Put the pieces of soaked glue without any superfluous water into the glue pot, taking care that the outer vessel is kept full of water, which will prevent the glue in the inner vessel from burning ; this is very important. (more…)
This crazy-looking saw till was on sale at the American College of the Building Arts yesterday, and I really want to build one without the wild paint job.
The tool dealer who was selling the till said he found it in Kentucky. The sides of the case tops are made from old cheese boxes. The back, he said, might have been salvaged from some leftover circus or carnival scrap, which could explain the paint.
The functional aspect of the till is an old idea: You slide the toe of the sawblade into the slot. A rubber-covered ring gets pushed to the side. As you let go of the saw, the ring drops down and wedges the saw plate in place. To remove the saw you push the blade up and pull it toward you. Nifty.
The world needs more wooden planemakers – it can be difficult to find vintage hollows and rounds and complex moulders that don’t need serious work (or are hopeless). Matt Bickford has his hands full; Old Street Tool isn’t taking new orders while they try to reduce their order backlog.
So today I was quite eager to try the planes from Caleb James, a planemaker and chairmaker in Greenville, S.C. Caleb makes a full range of wooden planes from quartersawn American beech that he personally cuts and dries.
I took his planes for a test drive during the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event at the American College of the Building Arts today and was impressed. Very impressed. His planes work as well as the planes from Matt Bickford and Old Street. They are responsive, have tight mouths and eject shavings smoothly.
If I didn’t have all the hollows and rounds I need, I would have placed an order on the spot. I might ask him to build me a couple of beading planes I want to add to my tool chest. So if you are thinking about wooden moulding planes, you now have another option – and a very good one at that.
Here are some of his prices from his 2014 price list:
• Matched pair of hollows and rounds: $450-$465
• Rabbet plane (5/8”, 3/4” or 7/8”, with or without persimmon boxing): $250-$285
• Try plane (2” iron, 24” long): $485
• Snipe bills (1/2” radius): $545/pair
• Coffin smoother: $365
Check out Caleb’s blog and web site here. In addition to being an accomplished toolmaker, Caleb makes Windsor chairs and is whip-smart. Check him out.
