Editor’s note: Our Mind Upon Mind series is a nod to a 1937 Chips from the Chisel column (also featured in “Honest Labour: The Charles H. Hayward Years”), in which Hayward wrote, “The influence of mind upon mind is extraordinary.” The idea being there’s often room for improvement. (You can read the entire Chips from the Chisel column here.)
To that end, we’ve asked you what else you have thought of, tried out and improved upon after building projects from our books. We’ve loved reading all your submissions!
Today’s pick is from Matt Williamson.
I have been messing around with “The Anarchist’s Design Book” and have made a few adjustments that you might find interesting. These are probably not improvements so much as solving problems caused by my desire to use what I have in lieu of greenwood I have yet to source.
For the staked stool, the seat is from a 13-1/2”-wide 9/4 pine joist I pulled from dumpster when a historical building in the neighborhood got rehabbed. For the staked chair, the hardwood I had included some 4/4 red oak and some 6/4 red oak that, again, I dumpster dove for in the neighborhood. These 6/4 scraps were not big enough to make a seat, but I thought they would add strength to the 4/4 seat panel and give the legs something to hold onto. It is a bit heavy.
I did not have any greenwood that could be bent for the staked stool back so I used a piece of apple wood from a tree I cut in the fall that basically followed the 12″ curve. I kind of liked it and found another piece to use when I made the staked chair a little while later.
Did you change up one of our projects or do you have a clever idea for an improvement? Email kara@lostartpress.com. You can read more about the submission process here.
The division of the periods from 1500 to 1800 into the ages of the Carpenter, Cabinet Maker, and Designer is convenient because these terms suggest the type of furniture being produced. In the earliest period furniture was made by the carpenter, who regarded furniture-making as incidental to his general work, and it therefore bore the characteristics of a craftsman used to large joinery work. Soon after 1660 some woodworkers began to specialise in furniture, and so came the age of the cabinet maker. Lastly, at about the middle of the eighteenth century, furniture began to be associated with the names of the individual designers and craftsmen, hence the term Age of the Designer.
A quick reminder that the introductory special of $100 plus free shipping on the four-volume collection of “The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years,” ends at 11:59 p.m. Eastern, June 4. On June 5, the price for the set will be $39 more.
Here’s the link to the page. The books are also available individually.
Editor’s note: Our Mind Upon Mind series is a nod to a 1937 Chips from the Chisel column (also featured in “Honest Labour: The Charles H. Hayward Years”), in which Hayward wrote, “The influence of mind upon mind is extraordinary.” The idea being there’s often room for improvement. (You can read the entire Chips from the Chisel column here.)
And so we ask for submissions: After building projects from our books, what else have you thought of, tried out and improved upon?
Today’s submission is from Jay Abramovitz in Voorhees, New Jersey.
I came up with an approach for accurately drilling holes at compound angles that has worked surprisingly well for me.
I started with three 2′ narrow lengths of pine. I glued two pieces together to form the “foot” of the jig. I attached the third piece (the “arm”) to the foot by drilling a hole through both pieces. I used a machine screw with a wing nut, which allowed the arm to rotate. I then attached two long eye screws to the opposite end of the arm a few inches apart to form a “gun sight” of sorts.
By placing the foot on my workpiece, I was able to line up the straight edge of the foot with my sightline.
I rotated the arm to the resultant angle needed (measured with a protractor) then moved the jig forward or back along the sightline on the workpiece until the location for the hole on the workpiece (the “bullseye” if you will) could be sighted through the two holes of the eye screws.
I then secured the foot to my workpiece with a clamp to make sure it didn’t move.
I placed a piece of tape on the back of my drill and used a Sharpie to mark a large dot on the tape in line with the long axis of the drill bit.
I then positioned my drill bit on the location for the hole on the workpiece and positioned the drill so that the dot on the back could be sighted through the two holes of the eye screws. I kept the dot on the back of the drill lined up with the center of the two holes on the eye screws as I drilled (like viewing a target through a gun sight, if you will). I then knew I was drilling dead on my sightline.
Did you change up one of our projects or do you have a clever idea for an improvement? Email kara@lostartpress.com. You can read more about the submission process here.
The following is an excerpt from “The Stick Chair Journal 2.” “The Stick Chair Journal” is also still available. While supplies last, you can purchase a bundle of issues Nos. 1 & 2 at a reduced price.
Your dining chairs can be more comfortable without being redesigned. The problem is that the tables won’t allow it.
Almost every modern dining table is 30″ tall. And almost every modern chair has a seat that is 18″ off the floor. That 12″ of difference allows space for the tabletop, the table’s aprons (if it has any) and the sitter’s legs.
Here’s the problem with those standards: An 18″ seat is too dang high for many sitters. My mother-in-law is about 5’2″, and every modern chair leaves her feet dangling over the floor like a schoolgirl in an adult chair.
After 10 minutes or so, the chair becomes incredibly uncomfortable as her blood supply to her legs is cut off by the seat, which is compressing her thighs. In the 1990s, I made her a small 4″-tall footstool for her dining set that would support her feet.
The solution to this problem, however, is not to build footstools for everyone whose shins are short.
Instead, the solution is to first lower the standard seat height of dining chairs by 2″ to 3″ or so. This will allow shorter people to rest their feet on the floor like regular human beings and sit comfortably for hours. What will a 15″ or 16″-high chair feel like for a tall person? Just fine. Their thighs will be above the seat, and if they want to lower them a bit, they can move their feet forward.
I’m 6’4″ and regularly sit in vernacular chairs that are 15″ and lower. I love them.
The only problem with this plan to cut all the chair legs down is the bog-standard, dyed-in-the-wool 30″-tall dining table. With shorter, more comfortable chairs, suddenly all the sitters’ elbows are below the tabletop, and everyone sitting around the table looks like a small child.
So, we also need to reduce the standard height of dining tables to 27″-28″ or so. That’s easy to do with a regular four-legged apron table – just cut down the four legs. Problem solved. But what if you own a pedestal table? Or a trestle table? There are solutions that involve trimming a little off the top and bottom of the trestle and pedestal. But some table designs won’t let you remove the full 3″ without making the table weak or weird-looking.
In 1933, Bengt Åkerblom asked a joiner in Sweden to build a chair to his specifications. The joiner refused to make thechair lower than the standard chair height. That’s how ingrained these standards are.
The only good solution is to start building dining tables that are 27″-28″ high. Then the chairs will come in line with lower seats. I don’t know why tables get to wag the dog, but that has been the case for more than 100 years.
Bengt Åkerblom wrote about this problem in his landmark “Standing and Sitting Posture” (1948). According to Åkerblom, here are the guidelines for a comfortable chair:
• The sitter should be able to shift position easily in the seat to use different resting positions.
• The height of the seat should not compress the thighs. He recommends a standard chair height between 15″ and 16″ .
• The seat should not be too deep. He recommends a seat should be no deeper than 15-3/4″. Seats can be as shallow as 8″, but this gets in the way of guideline No. 1 – the sitter needsroom on the seat to shift positions. A shallow seat does not allow this.
• The seat should slope backward by 3° to 5°.
• The seat should not be flat. It should be hollowed out a bit. Or it should have a thin cushion that is firm.
• Lumbar support is ideal. Having lumbar support and a backrest above can be very comfortable. The back can be inclined by as much as 25° to 30° off horizontal.
• Finally, and this is worth quoting Åkerblom directly: “In general, the height of the table must clearly conform to that of the chair and not vice versa.” He then goes on to recommend a table height of 27-1/2″.
At left, a sitter in an 18″-high chair at a table that is 30″ high. At right, the sitter in a 15″ chair. It is not the chair’s fault.
So today I opened my copy of “Human Dimension & Interior Space” (Watson-Guptill, 1979). This book is used by furniture designers and architects to construct interior spaces. I’ve used it for many years to figure out how tall a sideboard should be, or how long a table needed to be to seat eight people.
I turned to page 147-148, the section that deals with dining tables. It’s time to deal with “Line Item F,” which is the height of dining tables. I crossed out 29-30″ and wrote 27″.
