Every single vernacular stick chair I have studied uses cylindrical tenons. None have tapered tenons and mortises.
Yet, I teach many first-timers to use the tapered joint. What gives?
The tapered joint requires some special tooling, but you get a few chances to dial in the final angle. So it’s forgiving for beginners. A cylindrical mortise uses only a drill bit. But you get only one chance to get it right.
Personally, I prefer the cylindrical joint because it looks right to me. But both survive just fine in antique examples. You can make up all sorts of reasons that one is superior to the other, but the furniture record is clear: Both work.
Yesterday I legged up two Irish chairs I’m working on, and Kale Vogt (our new assistant editor), shot this short video that explains the steps I take to get my mortises just right.
This method is a little different than what I show in “The Stick Chair Book” (a free pdf download). I have added my cheap construction laser to the process. The laser makes the process so easy, that I’m considering using it in future classes.
I’m always on the lookout for local materials I can use to build stick chairs. Elm is my favorite wood, but it can be difficult to find for purchase.
Last month Shea Alexander of Alexander Bros. gave me a couple boards of honey locust to try out for a chair seat. It looks a lot like elm, with green undertones and slightly shimmering grain.
After surfacing it, I took a chunk and rived it out to see how it split. Unfortunately, it splits easily and cleanly. So it’s still OK for a chair seat (if I’m careful), but not as ideal as elm.
In the video above, I rive out some honey locust, white oak and American elm to show the differences.
Thanks for the wood, Shea. It really is beautiful and interesting stuff.
Years ago I used to make all my sticks with the 5/8” Ray Iles rounding plane. I think I must have had a bump on the head at some point because I cannot remember when or why I stopped using it.
Last year I bought one from Classic Hand Tools in the UK, and I quickly remembered how well it worked. When set with care, it can be used to shave sticks and tenons. And you can do it in a jiffy if you spin the stick with an electric drill.
There are other places that sell them, such as Workshop Heaven and Tools for Working Wood (plus some other small suppliers in the UK). If the tools are temporarily hard to get, Ray and his crew will make more.
The video above shows how I use the tool to create long sticks and tenons. It was shot by our new assistant editor, Kale Vogt. Kale is an enthusiastic chairmaker, and you’ll see a lot more of her in the coming weeks.
As per the usual, I buy all my tools with my own money. Nobody sponsors us. No affiliate links. No legerdemain.
— Christopher Schwarz
For other tips on making chairmaking cheaper, read these entries.
Whenever I teach a chair class, I build a chair along with the students. I don’t always sell my classroom-built chairs because I always push myself to try something different on the chair – something I’d be afraid to do to a chair that I am counting on to put food on the table.
During last week’s chair class I crossed over a threshold I have been approaching for a few years: changing the geometry of the comb of a comb-back to the point where it sits more like a Gibson chair.
This is the most comfortable comb-back I’ve made to date. I don’t like to name my furniture, but for now I’m calling this a “short-back chair.”
I don’t have “plans” for this chair. That’s not how I design chairs. It would take me longer to draw plans for this chair than to build another chair. But I am happy to share the essential geometry so you can graft it onto one of your designs. (This is my Southern way of saying all gentle-like: No, I’m not going to create plans. All you need is in the free book and the information below.)
Seat Height I have been gradually lowering the seat height of my chairs, as measured from the pommel to the floor. This chair is 15-1/2”. You might think that’s low. I don’t. I think tables are too high. When one of the students this week asked how low chair seats could go, I replied: “Many Morris chair seats are 12” off the floor.”
Here you can get a sense of the lean of the back.
Back & Seat Lean The back of this chair leans back 16.2° from the seat. The seat tilts 4.15° back. That’s a total lean of 20.25°. No, it doesn’t feel like a dentist’s chair. If you are using the chair plans in “The Stick Chair Book,” you achieve this 16.2° angle by positioning the front edge of the arm 1-1/4” behind the back edge of the seat. The seat is tilted back “two fingers.”
The Comb My big comb-back chairs have the comb about 15” above the arm. That makes for a big and impressive chair, but you have to arrange the sticks so the sitter’s shoulders don’t feel like they are being poked by a bunch of sticks.
In this chair, the bottom of the comb is 8-3/4” above the arm’s shoe. This means the comb supports the shoulders – the sticks are taken out of the comfort equation, which means the comb must be a comfortable curve. This one is 18” long and has a 20” internal radius. The top edge of the comb tilts back to add a little comfort.
What’s Next? I’m going to move the comb down 3/4” next time. I have a hunch that will help even more. (I could be full of crap.)
This chair is currently in paint (“Twilight” in General Finishes acrylic). Megan is patching a bit of blow-out on the arm (the bit of white in the photo). This chair, while experimental, is good enough to sell. I’ll post it for sale on the blog in the next week or so. It is made of elm with ash sticks. The chair will be $1,500 (which will include shipping). We’ll sell it via a random drawing.
Work on my next book, “The American Peasant,” has slowed my chairmaking a bit, but it hasn’t stopped me. I have six more chairs in the works right now.
Today I am offering this low-slung comb-back in ash. This chair is completely set up for lounging, and is about as comfortable a comb-back as I can make. The seat is low-slung – 15-3/4” off the ground, like old stick chairs. The seat tilts 5° back and the back tilts 17°. This chair is designed for long and comfortable sits.
The sticks are shaved and left faceted. And the short sticks were left slightly proud off the saw and then burnished to give the feel of the older chairs.
Like all my chairs, this one is assembled with animal glue, which is reversible should it ever need repairs. The finish is soft wax, which does not provide much protection but is easily repaired and develops age quickly.
I am selling this chair via a random drawing for $1,800. That price includes shipping the chair anywhere in the lower 48 states of the U.S.
Purchasing the Chair
If you wish to buy the chair, send an email to lapdrawing@lostartpress.com before 3 p.m. (Eastern) on Friday, Jan. 12. Please use the subject line: “Ash Chair.” In the email please include your:
U.S. shipping address
Daytime phone number (this is for the trucking quote only)
We will pick a name via a random drawing. If you are the “winner,” the chair can be picked up at our storefront for free. Or we will crate it and ship it to your door. (I’m sorry but the chair cannot be shipped outside the U.S.)
