This one has been a long time in coming. On May 31, 2020, I announced here that I was writing a book on Dutch tool chests. Today, November, 8, 2024, “Dutch Tool Chests” is finally in our warehouse and available for order. (Surprise! – the cover is blue.)
Inside the book, you’ll find in-depth instruction to help you build your own slant-lid chest, from soup (choosing the wood) to nuts (and bolts – which I suggest you use to attach the chest handles). There are plans and cutting lists for two different chest sizes, as well as for a rolling base that adds storage and convenience for moving it around the shop.
I love these chests – and have built more than a few! I find them to be great additions to the workshop and for hauling tools hither and yon when I drive somewhere to teach. (And, thanks to the fun of the “hidden” bottom compartment, these also make excellent toy chests for kids!) But more valuable in the long term (if I do say so myself) than the chest are the detailed lessons on some fundamentals of hand-tool woodworking: dados, rabbets, through-dovetails and more. My intent is that in building this chest, you’ll learn skills that will serve you well in all your hand-tool projects to come.
The chapter on through-dovetails, for example, includes just about everything I know about cutting (and teaching) this joint.
Plus, you’ll find a foreword from Roy Underhill, and a gallery of chests from 43 other makers (my favorite part of the book) that shows clever interior (and a few exterior!) modifications. Unique solutions that set them apart, and can be adapted for your own tool storage needs.
“Dutch Tool Chests” is 192 pages and is printed on 8-1/2” x 11” #70 matte-coated paper in Tennessee. The pages are folded into signatures, sewn, glued and reinforced with fiber-based tape to create a permanent binding. Enclosing the signatures are heavy (98-pt.) blue-fabric-covered boards. The cover and spine are adorned with a silver foil die stamp.
The book is $39 and comes with a free pdf if you order it from us by December 11. And all copies ordered direct from us will have my illegible scrawl of a signature in the front of the book. (We don’t know which of our retailers will carry it; I and my cats sure hope they all do! For complete information on that, click here.)
Note: Orders placed today (Friday, Nov. 8), will ship on Tuesday, Nov. 12 because of the holiday.
A bevy of brand-new DTCs (lids still to be attached) from a recent class in London.
Table of Contents:
Foreword 1
1. Let’s Go ‘Dutch’ 5 2. Materials 11 3. Parts Prep 23 4. Dovetails 29 5. Dados 49 6. Shelves 57 7. Top Angles 61 8. Assembly 65 9. Lock & Batten Notches 71 10. Bottom Lip 75 11. Front 79 12. Fall Front 83 13. Backboards 91 14. Lid 97 15. Hardware 111 16. Paint 121 17. Interior 127 18. Mobile Base 133 19. Gallery 139
Acknowledgments 185
– Fitz
p.s. Because someone always asks: Fully loaded with my tools for any given class, my white pine chest weighs less than 50 lbs. For now, I can still get it into the back of my car by myself (though it was easier for me four years ago when I first began writing “Dutch Tool Chests“).
The editorial staff is currently on the road to Wales, which is why we haven’t been posting much on the blog this week. Despite our remoteness (physically) we’ve been working on Lost Art Press stuff the whole time.
Here are some updates on new things and reprints.
“Dutch Tool Chests” by Megan Fitzpatrick should ship from the printer this week. We’ll have it up for sale next week. All copies purchased directly through Lost Art Press will be signed by the author.
“Good Eye” by Jim Tolpin and George Walker is in its final stages. George and Jim have a few corrections to the text. We’ll make those when we return. Then the book will be off to the printer – and out right before Christmas (assuming no publishing tragedies).
“American Peasant” (second printing) should be back in stock by Nov. 13. The second printing will have a completely different cover than the first printing.
Exeter hammers should be back on sale sometime during the week of Nov. 18. We have a bunch of hammer heads on hand now and are waiting on the handles. With any luck, we’ll have 500 more hammers out in the world by the end of the year.
“The Woodworker” series of books. Many of you have noticed that we are out of stock on all four volumes of our “Woodworker” books. These will be back in print in early 2025 in a nice softcover format. During the pandemic, the prices for making these books nearly doubled. We can’t in our right minds double the retail price on these. So we are switching to a softcover. The binding will be the same: folded, stitched and glued signatures. The only difference will be the cover. We hope to sell the set of four books for $99 as a result.
Dutch tool chest class on October 13, after three days of diligent work.
As I got ready to teach my Dutch tool chest class last weekend, I realized I was incredibly rusty as far as succinct instruction for this project. I checked my calendar, and I’m pretty sure the last time I taught this class in our shop was the weekend of May 6, 2022 – and the last time I taught it at all was at the Florida School of Woodwork in October of 2022. So it’s been two years since last I tried to cram all the instruction into just a few days.
Instead, I was busy expounding and expanding instruction in “Dutch Tool Chests,” which (if the printer deities are smiling upon me) will be in our warehouse in early November (and we’ll offer a pdf free with purchase for the first 30 days it’s on sale, just FYI, since a couple people have asked). In the book, I offer a brain dump on different ways to approach the various building steps, so that readers can choose what works best for their mindset and tool set.
Take rabbets, for example, which are cut to create a raised panel on the fall front and chest lid (and as practice for cutting a square rabbet in a low-risk decorative situation, where it’s OK if it’s slightly out of square!).
When I’m teaching,I get just enough of my work done on a given project only for demonstration purposes. On my fall front from last weekend, for example, I cut a rabbet on only one long-grain edge and one short-grain end, then handed over my tool to students. I’m hoping to get this thing completed before the end of the week…then have it and a few other projects ready to sell at our Nov. 23rd Open Day.
In the book, I mention the dado stack for those who liked a tailed approach, then cover at some length techniques for cutting a crisp rabbet with a skew rabbet plane, a straight rabbet plane or a shoulder plane (there are other hand-tool ways of course – but I teach what I know best).
In a short class, though, it simply isn’t possible to explore the options and offer choices/decisions. Instead I sharpen and set up ahead of time our Veritas skew rabbet planes (which are technically moving fillisters) for a 3/4-wide x 1/16″ deep cut, show the students how to use the tool (preferably without cutting myself on the corner of the blade while looking up and talking about the work instead of paying proper attention to what I’m doing), then send them off to do the work.
After filling almost 200 pages of “here’s lots of options,” it was difficult to remember to dial it back in the shop to what was possible to achieve in three days, with limited tool sets and varying skill sets among the students. But thank goodness I dusted off my in-person DTC teaching skills last weekend in our shop, where I know where to find everything. The next time I teach this tool chest will be in a few weeks in England, at the London IWF, where my own tool set will be severely limited and I’ll have no idea where to find anything.
And by the time I get back from England, I’m hopeful my book will be in the warehouse. Now I just have to not cut my signing fingers (I won’t – it’s always my left hand that gets cut by not paying attention to that pesky pokey-outie skew rabbet blade).
By the end of this week (assuming no more disasters), we should have a clutch of our new Exeter-pattern Furniture-maker’s Hammers for sale, as well as – finally! – “Principles of Design” (we thought we’d have it in June, but we’ve been bedeviled by cover problems at the bindery).
“Principles of Design” is our title for a reprint of “Industrial Arts Design” by William H. Varnum. It was first published in 1916 to help train industrial arts instructors to teach design. The book deals with furniture, ceramics and metalwork. All three crafts are regulated by the same rules laid out by Varnum in absolutely crystal-clear detail.
If you’ve been building or studying furniture for a while, there are some of these rules you know by instinct but not by conscious thought. By laying out his simple principles, Varnum makes the basic design process rational and not regulated by the dark arts of inspiration or creativity.
In many ways, Varnum’s rules prepare you for creative leaps. Here, he says, are the rules established by hundreds of years of furniture making. You can work within this comfortable envelope, or you can deliberately step outside his guidelines.
His approach is compatible with George Walker and Jim Tolpin’s writings on design. In fact, many of their ideas from “By Hand & Eye” (such as whole-number ratios) integrate easily with Varnum.
So keep an eye out for those two new offerings later this week.
And keep an eye out in early November (barring printer delays) for my book, “Dutch Tool Chests.” It will be available directly from us (yes, we will have signed copies), and we hope from our retail partners (as always, it is up to them whether or not to carry a book). In the meantime, here’s a taste of what’s inside, excerpted from Chapter 5: Dados. Below is my favorite way to cut them, though I offer other options in the book, including some that – GASP! – use electricity.
– Fitz
Saw With a Fence My preferred way to cut a dado is with a crosscut saw, followed by a chisel and a router plane to clean things up. With just a little experience, it’s easy to nibble your way back on the layout line with a crosscut saw to cut a shallow kerf. Once the kerf spans the board, you can use that kerf to guide the tool as you saw more aggressively down to the baseline.
If this is your first dado, or if you’re not yet comfortable sawing to a line, you can use a fence to help guide you. (Again, one of the skids can come in handy for this purpose – or any other piece with a straight edge that is no longer than the width of the side; otherwise, your saw handle might run into it.)
Clamp the fence down along your layout line (clamping the workpiece down simultaneously), with the waste to the inside. And here is why I like a 0.5mm pencil: if you use a fat pencil, the range of where across the line’s width to clamp is too great. A 0.5mm pencil is the perfect size for covering about half the line, leaving just enough of it to show along the edge of the fence. (If you can’t see the line, how do you know you’re sawing the line?) Make sure to arrange the clamps or holdfasts so that they aren’t in the path of your saw. Or your knuckles.
Here, I’m sawing the first side of the dado with a fence and block to guide the saw, and to help keep the cut perpendicular to the side. The goal is to cut a square dado.
Now grab your crosscut saw (backsaw or handsaw – it doesn’t matter much when you have a fence) and push the plate against the fence with a flat-sided block of wood held in your off-hand. If the block of wood is long enough, you can simply hold it in place to help keep the plate at 90° to the workpiece as you saw. With a shorter piece, it helps to move the block in tandem with the sawplate. Saw down to your baseline – and check to make sure you’ve hit it on the far side, too. Then lift the saw at a slight angle and make a few short cuts to deepen the center of the kerf. It’s possible you’re sawing below the baseline there … but more likely you’re removing waste in the middle that you missed. Either way, you’re making the waste easier to remove.
Here are the marks after I’ve removed the shelf.
Do not move the fence. I repeat: Do NOT move the fence.
Grab your shelf board and match up the marriage marks on the shelf to the mark on the side piece. (Both should be on the front edge and facing up.)
Press the shelf to the fence – on the waste side of course – and pencil a mark at the front and back edge. If the board is rocking at all, press it tight at one edge and make the mark, then rock it to press tight at the other edge and make a mark.
If the board rocks against the fence, or touches only at the edges, that’s OK. By marking only at the edges, you’re laying out the second dado wall for a tight fit.
Now you can remove the fence.
To cut the second dado wall, you’ll need to approach the work from the other side to keep your hands in the right place for ease of sawing. So if you can’t access your bench from both sides, turn the workpiece 180° before clamping the fence in place to the lines. As before, cover as much as possible of the lines, leaving just a hairsbreadth showing in the waste.
Set up, and ready to saw the second dado wall. Note that the waste is to the inside of the fence.
Double-check that the waste is to the inside of the fence, and that your clamps or holdfasts are far enough to the side so as not to impede your sawing. Now triple check. All good? OK – saw as before.
If you’re making a two-bay chest, go ahead and saw the walls of the second dado the same way. If you used the method above, I’ll bet after two cuts you’re already sick of that fence. And if you’ve made four cuts (for two dados), you’re definitely sick of that fence.
Saw Faster (No Fence) Now, you might be worried about messing things up without the training wheels of a fence – but if you’ve cut a dado or two, trust me: You’re ready to just saw. And (most) mistakes can be fixed.
Start with just the end of the saw – no more than an inch or two – on your layout line and take small bites as you work back along the line, blowing away the dust as you go so that you can see the line. Continue to gently nibble and blow for good results.
Raise the toe of the saw and use it to nibble along your layout line. Once you’ve cut a kerf all along the line (at which point the line should have disappeared), put the full plate in the shallow kerf and use the kerf to guide the tool as you cut to the baseline.
Once you’ve cut a shallow kerf across the entire board, drop the sawplate into the kerf and use it to guide the tool as you saw more aggressively down to the baseline. Do your best to keep the saw perpendicular to the work.
Once you become comfortable with that method, you can go faster still by starting the cut the same way as above, but lowering the saw into the kerf and taking longer and longer strokes to deepen the cut all the way across, using your first, nibbled kerf to guide you. (You’ll reach the baseline more quickly at the far side, so adjust your stroke as required to reach full depth all the way across.)
Note that sawing without a fence – and doing it aggressively – is easier with a backsaw because the back, or spine, help to keep the cut straight. But most backsaws have smaller teeth than a handsaw (a saw without a spine), so if you’re feeling both brave and in a hurry, grab a crosscut handsaw.
Now let’s say you started sawing without the training wheels. How, then, to mark the second wall of the dado? You could measure and mark, but that’s more likely to introduce error than simply holding the shelf in place on the waste side of the kerf, and marking at each edge of the board. Align the shelf so it just covers the full width of the kerf (you’ll be able to see it on the edge). Align it at the other side to make the mark there (just in case the shelf is not dead flat). Then use a pencil against a combination square to connect those lines.
For a tight fit on the dado, cover the full kerf with the shelf as you mark at each edge to locate the second wall.
Saw again – this time cheating just a hair toward the waste on the inside of your line. This will likely result in a dado that is too tight – but there’s a fast an easy “fix” that all but guarantees a nice, tight dado. I almost always shoot for too tight.
With all the kerfs cut on one side, you can show it to the other side and use a marking knife in the kerf to transfer the location to the interior of the second side (check those marriage marks!). If you marked the layout on both at the same time, check that your cuts on the first side match up to the lines on the second side. If not, erase the layout lines, transfer the new location and re-mark.
Here, I’m carefully aligning the two side pieces for a two-bay chest to ensure that my layout lines are in the right place on the second side. Note that I’m aligning the dovetail baselines, not the bottoms of the sides. Theoretically, the baselines and bottoms will both align perfectly. In reality, they might not. The shelf should be level after assembly – and aligning the baselines helps to ensure it is.
I prefer to put the two front edges together as I do the above, simply because that means the marriage marks are touching, and it’s easy to tell you have things facing the right way (at least, until you butt the boards together and can no longer see the marks).
Now saw the dado walls on the second side, same as before (or, if you used a fence on the first side, try it without now!).
Bash Out the Waste With the walls cut, we’re ready to remove the waste between them, down the baseline.
Grab the widest chisel you have that will fit between the dado walls. (A 3/4″ chisel is in theory the perfect size; in reality, you might need a narrower chisel. Especially if you cheated the cut toward the waste maybe a little too much.)
I don’t know if this is a 3/4″ or 5/8″ chisel, and I do not care, I just know it fits nicely between my dado walls.
Hold the chisel flat to the work (bevel up), about halfway or a little farther down into the waste, and knock out as much as you can across the width. Repeat, this time just above the baseline. (You might be able to get it all out in one go, depending on the wood species, dado depth and your tolerance for fear.)
First, work bevel up. And note how the workpiece is jammed against a secure board, which pushes the workpiece to the edge for easy access and moving. This allows you to do this work more quickly than clamping the workpiece.
Flip the piece and work in from the other edge. You might be able to reach the middle with your chisel bevel up for all the work. But if you can’t, flip the chisel bevel down to remove the remaining waste in the middle. Bevel down is faster, but the tool wants to dive in more deeply in that orientation, so stay alert.
If there’s a hump in the middle you can’t reach, work bevel down to remove it.
Get close to the baseline with the chisel. Or, finish the dado with chisel cuts if you like, taking small bites at full depth for a clean dado floor. But it’s easier to get a nice, smooth bottom by using a router plane. Use the baseline to set the router plane blade to the final dado depth. Make sure there are no chips under the plane’s sole, then simply zip out the remaining waste, working in from both sides so you don’t blowout as you exit the cut (blowout is never pretty).
A router plane is fun to use – and it cuts a nice smooth bottom in the dado.
Why not use the router plane to remove all the waste, lowering the blade with each pass? You can, but that’s a lot slower, and you miss out on mallet fun. Also, the router plane blade is more fussy to sharpen than a chisel – so I’d rather my chisel take the brunt of the waste removal.
I am delighted to announce that the book I started writing four years ago – “Dutch Tool Chests” – is finally in the hands of our printer. I also hope to have proofs to review by the weekend. Above is a mockup of the cover (surprise, it’s gray/blue). The real thing will look a lot better, with cloth over 98 pt. boards and a platinum die stamp. The price will be $39. (As are all Lost Art Press books, it will be printed in the U.S.A.)
Inside the book is everything you need to build your own Dutch tool chest – 192 pages, from choosing materials at the home center or lumberyard to the paint. And of course, lots of hand-tool instruction in between – techniques and tool instruction that will come in handy for any number of projects. Oh – plus a brain dump on through-dovetails (the thing I teach the most), but written so that if you already feel solid in your dovetail abilities, you can skip all but the first sentence of each paragraph in that chapter. I’d hate to bore you.
My favorite parts of the book, though, are the two sections I didn’t write: the foreword from Roy Underhill (thank you, Roy!) and the gallery of Dutch chests from 43 other makers. These clever adaptations and customized interior designs show the great flexibility of the form, and how you can make it your own.
I’ll be sharing more from the book in the coming weeks. For now, I’m just so happy that it’s done. With luck and a lack of printer delays, I hope we’ll have it in house around November 1 (and I’m limbering up my hand for signing copies). And of course, I hope our international retailers will carry it, but as always, that is up to them. (Those that do will likely have it by January.)
