Lost Art Press

From R.C., Carroll, Iowa.— In answer to the subscriber from Virden, Ill., in a former issue, as to where he can “secure” trimmings for a tool chest. I would say that they could be taken from another fellow’s chest late at night by the skillful manipulation of a crowbar and a screwdriver; but should he be willing to purchase them he can do so at a hardware store, a place where they keep for sale ten-penny nails, gimlets and gasoline stoves. Such an establishment can be found on the front street of any well regulated town, the entrance to which – the store not the town – is generally designated by a washing machine and a scoop shovel.

Or any school boy can locate the place for a nickel.

I would advise him to use iron handles, as crickets and grasshoppers often eat a rope handle. The hinges, which should also be of iron in preference to leather, as the contraction and expansion of the leather during dry and wet weather might seriously affect the working of the lock. Hinges should be placed on the opposite side of the lock, which ought to be a combination. As the correspondent failed to sign his name to his letter of inquiry, he is evidently absent minded, in which case it would be well to have the combination in large letters on the top of the chest, then wrap the whole thing well with a clothesline, securing both ends of the line – not the chest – in a Marquis of Queensberry knot sealed with green wax. Any further information desired by the subscriber will be cheerfully furnished. If other subscribers wish information of any kind, I hope they will make their wants known.

— From Carpentry and Building, October 1899 issue. This gem was dug up by Jeff Burks. Both Jeff and I would like to buy R.C. of Carroll, Iowa, a much-deserved beer. 

From C.E.W., Kansas. City, Mo.— I inclose sketches of a tool box in reply to the correspondent recently making inquiry in regard to work of this kind. This box has, in my opinion, one advantage over all others, as a man can get any tool from it without moving any other. There is no waste room; the chest is light and strong and can, therefore, be readily moved about. The drawers can have faces made of hard wood and carved, if desired, as they are protected by the sliding panel in front. When the lid is raised the panel can be pulled up so that the drawers will open. A pin in the top of the panel flush with the top of the box securely locks the panel down when the box is closed. The box should be made of trunk stuff – that is, three pieces of wood glued together with the grain running different ways. Each piece should be 1/8 inch thick, thus making a total of 3/8 inch, which is sufficiently heavy. Slides for the drawers are glued to them on the inside, and the corners, of 1-1/8-inch oak, are plowed so as to let the front panel slide. The top cap is cut in 1/2 inch and glued.

Fig. 1 shows a general view of the box with the lid raised and the front panel partially broken away, showing the front of the drawers. Fig. 2 is a vertical cross section taken through the middle of the box, while Fig. 3 is a top view of one of the front corners.

From D.F.M., Syracuse, Neb.—I am interested in tool chest construction just now, and send my plan, shown in Fig. 4. for the boys to comment on. It rests on casters and the bottom drawer is 9-1/2 inches deep inside. Under the lid at the front is a saw rack, while at the back is a similar space for plans, details, &c. In the center is a solid tray, with two of the same size beneath, which slide out at the ends each way and can be made full length or cut in two. The ends are made with rail and stile like a door. The drawers are held solid with flush bolts. A strap of iron or brass extends through to the outside and catches the bolt. The lid can be made deep enough for a drop leaf and makes a nice place for paper, T square, &c. The owner of a chest can put as much work on it as he desires.

— Carpentry and Building, March 1901. Thanks to Jeff Burks for digging up these two letters. Much more from this series on chests to come.