At long last, we are selling and shipping our new Crucible Planing Stop. The price is $49 plus shipping (if you order the planing stop by itself, shipping should be $7 and change).
These stops are easy to install (see the movie here), look traditional and are less expensive than black-smith-made planing stops.
We plan to offer these to our retailers worldwide, but I’m not sure if all of them will carry it – it’s their call.
— Christopher Schwarz
18 thoughts on “Now Shipping: Crucible Planing Stop”
Shipping was $8.50.
I notice that you don’t cut a recess so the stop can be fully dropped below table level. Us there a reason not to, or us that just a complication you didn’t need on your bench?
Without a recess, the teeth of the stop are less than 1/4″ above the bench. So I didn’t see the point of cutting one.
I suspect the primary advantage to cutting a recess is for safety – it allows the teeth to go below the benchtop. In 15 years of using them I’ve yet to cut myself (and my stop is SHARP). So it’s not a priority for me.
I’m not concerned about cutting myself, but I do often need that end of my bench flat. Can the stop be recessed into the block in that case?
Absolutely! As I said in another comment the other day (see Planing Stops for Sale on Monday, for me that is the precise reason why I bothered to cut such a recess – that, and that it allows me to get the teeth even further down if needed for working really thin stock.
Sorry John, I didn’t read your question properly. My planing stop is recessed into the top, not into the block, which, just as Chris (who clearly reads better than I do) says, is the simple solution to the needing-the-bench-flat-at-that-end issue.
Apologies. And cheers,
You could recess it into the block, but you would lose some functionality. A recess in the benchtop is the better solution if you want an unobstructed flat surface.
Hi guys, I’m confused about what’s going on here. Would you not simply remove the block like any other stop, block, pin or whatever when you need a flat surface?
You can. But it is a lot of pounding to get the block out.
I see. thx
Lap, if you had your bevel squares ready you could ship them together
I wish we could. But we don’t have any bevels.
Ordered! Going to make my Anarchist style bench even better. Thank you.
Cough, draw bore pins, cough 😁
People concerned about the loss of flat surface or cutting a recess for the teeth – why not just flip the block over and use the other end? Ordered mine today. Exited to replace my crooked nails in a block.
For the same reason we don’t want to just knock the block out altogether – it is perfectly possible to do, and achieves the desired goal, but takes rather longer and many more knocks than to just sink the teeth into a recess. As Chris says above, ” […] it is a lot of pounding to get the block out”.
If one is not bothered about loss of flat, a recess is not necessary; if one is, a recess is the simple solution.
That said, pounding one’s block mightily is neither illegal nor morally suspicious, so druthers rule!
Just showed up, next up, a block of wood.
Very fast shipping, thanks.
Ordered mine December 21 and it arrived December 24th. It’s lovely. I have been taking my time installing it. No major hitches so far. As a curious metallurgist, I was wondering if Crucible/LAP would show a photo of a casting just out of the mold–with the risers, runners, sprues, and so on still intact. I can see where my stop connected to a runner, and was wondering what the rest of mold looks like–if there is a tree with several stops per pour, etc. (I also totally understand if you don’t want to show any other toolmakers how it’s done–making things is hard.)
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