If you write hilarious T-shirt slogans and have some hand saws with loose nuts (and who doesn’t) then read on.
We’re giving away three custom split-nut drivers made using the Pin-Eez tool. (If it doesn’t sound like I’m typing English here, read this blog entry and it will all make sense.) The manufacturer of the Pin-Eez gave me these three tools last week to thank me for my blog entry.
So what do you have to do to win this fabulous split-nut driver? Be hilarious. We’re trolling around for the next slogan to put on the back of our Lost Art Press T-shirts. We sold out of the ones that read “Rude Mechanicks Since 1678.” Our latest T-shirt features the slogan “Boring Since 1678.” Click here to see that shirt.
The slogan has to be short – six words or less. And it has to relate (obviously) to woodworking, hand tools, beer drinking, Joseph Moxon, Andre Roubo – or preferably all of those at once.
Here is how you enter: Simply post your slogan as a comment at the end of this blog entry before midnight, Friday, Feb. 6. Be sure to include an e-mail address so we can contact you. (This isn’t a scam to collect your e-mail addresses; we’re not that sophisticated.)
We’ll pick our three favorite slogans and announce the three winners on Feb. 7. Each winner will receive a split-nut driver and a T-shirt with the current slogan.
As mentioned in another blog I have been trying to get productive. I am working on the legs of two Welsh Stick chairs with a “Lord of the Rings” touch. I made the legs out of very dry white oak and tapered them on the band saw. I did this before, so I know that I want to be approximately 1-3/4″ wide a the bottom of the leg and 1-1/8″ at a point that is 3″ down from the top of the leg. The length of the leg is 19-1/2″.
OK, here is the deal. I am using a tapered reamer and a tapered tenon maker from Lee Valley. You can see the tapered tenon maker in the picture above. They are sized to work with each other, i.e. the tenon will fit into the tapered mortise. This is the ideal chair joint. As chairmaker David Fleming pointed out (and I am sure others did as well), when you sit in the chair it makes the joint tighter. The opening of the taper tool is 1-1/4″ it is 3″ long. If the wood won’t clear the opening it won’t make it to the cutter and the thing won’t work.
Tapering to 1-1/4″ on the band saw was not a problem for four sides. The problem came in on the diagonal which of course was not 1-1/4″ and jamming up the works. So, I did what every hand tool enthusiast does, grabbed a jack plane, set it to take a huge cut and worked up a sweat! After leg three I had a Jethro moment. Like the time he told Uncle Jed how hard it was carrying heavy sacks from the back of the house to the truck which was at the front of the house. Uncle Jed asked him, “Why don’t you drive the truck around back?” I made a jig. There is masking tape on the jig because, as I now know, the jig needed to be tapered. I learned this after I made it….
OK, the picture above is what I am trying to get to. Make a tapered square into a tapered hexagon.
Here is the tapered tenon cutter in action. It is like a pencil sharpener.
My day job at a woodworking magazine forces me to try out new sharpening equipment all the time, which drives me bonkers. No matter how long you have been sharpening, it takes some time to get tuned into a new stone or guide or system.
However, sometimes all this agony results in some ecstasy.
For example, I’ve become fond of the small Kell honing guide for chisels. No honing guide I’ve ever used can produce such accurate edges. Why? Two reasons. The jig clamps from the sides, which prevents your chisel from shifting. However, my old Eclipse-style guide also clamps from the sides. So what’s the big deal?
Where the Kell excels is that you can secure the chisel with its unbeveled face against the Kell’s guide bars. Brilliant. While my Eclipse guide tends to make my chisels twist, the Kell does not. As a result, it’s far easier to hone a straight secondary bevel on chisels (and on straight irons for joinery planes).
The irony about the Kell is that I was introduced to the guide by Joel Moskowitz, the owner of Tools for Working Wood. Joel is an advocate of freehand sharpening. But now I’ve even more attached to my honing guides because of him. Thanks Joel!
My other favorite bit of sharpening equipment is the little block of wood shown in the photo. I mark common honing angles on it using my daughter’s protractor. Then I set it on the end of my bench and use it to set the chisel to the proper angle for sharpening in the guide.
I have tried myriad devices and techniques for setting angles. I have marked up my workbench with dozens of lines for setting a wide variety of irons to a wide variety of angles. Nothing works as simple and brilliantly as a direct reading from my block of wood. And it’s portable and I never – ever – have to compensate for the thickness of a tool or its taper.
I had to make up this new block of wood recently because I lost my old one at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking. My old one was fancier – it had the radius of my fore plane’s blade shaped into the back end. That way I could just trace the shape onto a fore plane blade and grind to the line.
Ok I am getting caught up on some woodworking projects. I have been closing the books for Lost Art Press and getting ready for tax filings…It is surprising how much non-woodworking tasks there are to do in a woodworking business. I digress.
As promised here is a pic of the Veritas Skew Rabbet plane aka moving fillister, in action. A Rabbet is a recess with two open sides that is cut with the grain. A fillister is a cross grain rabbet. Just like a groove is with the grain and a dado is across the grain. The moving fillister has a fence to allow for adjustment of the fillister.
Anyway, the plane works great as you can see. The wood is figured maple and I didn’t even have the nicker (the blade that slices the wood fibers ahead of the blade) in place. It was adjusted out of the way when I put the plane back into the cabinet and forgot to set it when I started planing for this picture.
The next pic is an attachment I made for the shooting board so I could fine tune the miter cuts on some boxes I am making. I took a couple of pieces of a pine 2×12 left over from the trestle table I built. I band sawed them to shape, glued them together and added a fence. Crude but it works. I just clamp it onto the shooting board and have at it. The bar of the clamp is a bit in the way but I will try another clamp or something.
My to do list includes replacing a number of wooden pieces for my brother’s parquet floor, legging up a chair, and trying to get a jewelry box done. I also got called from a friend who wants help framing his basement and build a bar and a co-worker who wants shelves built for her new house. What I want to do is build the Massachusetts Block Front Chest that Glen Huey made. Don’t we all get grabbed when someone finds out we woodwork? Yes, I would like to help out but I still have a lot of painting to do in my house not to mention installing a hardwood floor and winning the super bowl on my Xbox 360. Heck, that doesn’t take into account all the hi-def cable channels and the new blue ray player! But I digress again…Back to work!
Like most woodworkers, I learn a lot about the craft while building projects. What’s surprising is how much I learn about the craft after the project is completed and put to use.
Most of the projects I build for Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking end up in the hands of friends, family and the employees of the publishing company I work for. (The employees have to pay only for the cost of materials – a sweet benefit.)
But I have quite a few of the prototypes in our house, including our dining room table, which was a project featured on the cover of the Autumn 2006 issue. I’d built the prototype in December 2005, so it has now seen at least 1,000 meals. And it has taught me at least five important lessons.
1. Trust antique designs. This table’s proportions, lines and joinery were all taken from antique Shaker and early American forms featured in Wallace Nutting’s “Furniture of the Pilgrim Century, 1620-1720” (Download the entire book for free here.) The table weighs very little; my 7-year-old daughter can lift one end of the 8’-long table with one hand. Yet it is unbelievably sturdy; my 7-year-old routinely vaults herself off the breadboard ends. My wife soils herself every time. I just smile.
2. Leave appropriate toolmarks. I flattened the underside of the tabletop by traversing it with a fore plane. It has deep, regularly spaced scallops across it. I left them there, and I’m so glad I did. Every evening my fingers ride the scallops on the underside, and it’s my favorite aspect of the table.
3. Thin breadboards are good. Because I was worried about my kids vaulting off the ends of this table (a well-founded fear apparently), I decided to make the breadboard tongues 3/8” thick instead of 1/4” or 5/16” thick (the top itself is about 7/8”). That was a mistake. Not only did it make construction more difficult because the mortise walls were so thin, it also made the ends of the breadboards more fragile. One of the corners chipped out during a pre-teen dance party.
4. The finish is never finished. The tabletop has taken a beating. Even though I thought I’d applied enough coats of lacquer, it probably would look better today if I’d applied a couple more. Oh well. If the tabletop gets so beat up that it looks like crap, I’ll refinish it. Refinishing is part of the life of many pieces of furniture.
5. Wedged tenons are as incredible as dovetails. I am stunned at how tight the joinery is everywhere on the base thanks to the wedged tenons. My kids have done everything in their power to tear this table apart.
I can see that the light is failing outside my window. That means it’s time to go downstairs and start making dinner and see if I get another lesson in woodworking from the thing that holds the plates.
