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LostArtPress on InstagramStools, dead and alive. The students are designing their own stools today. We start with half-scale models made with wire hangers and scrap. These models determine the sight lines and resultants.Cutting Lapped Dovetails. It makes no difference whether the dovetails or the pins are cut first; it is mostly a matter of personal preference, though choice may be determined by other considerations. For instance, the top and bottom may have to be glued up to make the width, and it would then likely be convenient to cut the pins in the ends whilst the joints are setting. Marking out. Trimming the wood to size is the first procedure. The ends in which the pins are cut are obvious; they are the finished size of the carcase as shown in Fig. 1. It is clear that the top and bottom must be short of the overall width by the combined thickness of the two laps in the ends. This lap size has therefore to be decided straightway. In Fig. 1 the required over-all width is 18 ins. Assuming that the lap is to be 1/8 in. it is clear that the top and bottom will have to finish 17-3/4 ins. long. Use the cutting gauge to mark the extent of the joint as shown in Fig. 2. Set the gauge to work from the inside of the ends, the required lap projecting beyond, and mark both sides of top and bottom as well as the edges of the ends (see A). In this way the pins are bound to be the same size as the dovetails. Since the top and bottom sink their full thickness into the ends, the gauge is now re-set the thickness of these and the inner surface of the ends marked as at B, Fig. 2. — from “The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years: Volume III” published by Lost Art Press #the_woodworkerThanks @leevalleytools for the write-up in your latest catalog. Much appreciated!
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Category Archives: Anarchist’s Gift Guide
Batting cleanup for the gift guide, I recommend you try the Shaker Braid Brooms from Berea College. Not only are these the best brooms I’ve used, but they are made by students at Berea College, one of the eight “labor … Continue reading
I always include one tool in our gift guide that is a bit on the pricey side. This year it’s the Wera Tool-Check PLUS set, which is an incredibly well-made and handy set of sockets and drivers that will get … Continue reading
If you want to improve your workbench’s vises in an hour, just add Crubber. These thin sheets of cork and rubber add a good deal of grip to your vise’s jaws, and they also protect the workpiece. After becoming … Continue reading
When we need a simple and non-toxic finish, we reach for Allback, a combination of organic linseed oil and beeswax that is great for many woodworking projects. It’s great for chairs, small cabinets and turned objects. It’s not so great … Continue reading
Setting a sliding bevel to an exact degree is difficult with a plastic protractor. Depending on the design of the protractor, you usually have to first draw the line you want and then set the bevel to that. So there … Continue reading
When Lie-Nielsen started selling this dusting brush (at the advice of David Chalesworth) I chuckled about it like when you see a guy wearing an ascot or pocket square. Then I used it, and I bought one immediately. Made with … Continue reading
There are occasional times in the shop I gash myself pretty good. I know that I don’t need stitches, but I also don’t want to wait for an hour for the wound to stop bleeding and set up enough that … Continue reading