Anyone who listens to NPR as much as I do has to be tired of hearing about Brexit and the campaign trail. The best way to take your mind off of the craziness? Read the LAP forum! It’s the best way to spend your time while waiting for the market to recover. Remember, if you have a question about our products, procedures in our books or anything related to Lost Art Press, the fastest way to get an answer is our forum. Check it out here.
Staked dining table Cory finished his staked work table (above) and I am so glad he shared. I love the finish! He also added his own touch by including bevels. Take a look here.
SawStop Cast Iron Wings Mark bought a SawStop and one of the cast iron wings seems to be warped. Anyone have any suggestions for him on how they would fix it? He is out of ideas and his next step is to get a replacement.
Using a No. 45 Plane to Bead Tongue and Groove Anyone know what episode of “Woodwright’s” had Roy demonstrating how to use a No. 45 combination plane to put a bead next to a tongue and groove joint? If not, have suggestions on where Matt can get some insight?
“Progressive” lenses AKA bifocals? Have experience with progressive lenses and woodworking? Matt wants to know what you think before he takes the jump. Here’s where to go to help him make his decision.
Technical drawing is an essential part of the craftsman’s professional equipment. The fact that the subject has some prominence in the syllabus of the City and Guilds should be noted by the student. A really efficient tradesman needs to be capable of “setting out,” i.e., drawing the form, construction and dimensions of any straightforward piece of work that he is called upon to undertake. The knowledge that his technical drawings may also be required to give effective guidance to others than himself should serve to impress upon the young woodworker the need for clearness and accuracy.
Working drawings are normally set out to show clearly the following aspects of the job concerned: (1) Main elevation; (2) Plan; (3) Sectional views (as required); (4) All necessary dimensions; (5) Constructional data.
Rods or skids, to which reference will be made, are usually set out in section only. For convenience of discussion technical drawings may be classified as: (a) Scale drawings; (b) Full-size drawings.
SCALE AND FULL-SIZE DRAWINGS Scale drawings. In scale drawing a selected lineal unit is made to represent a larger one. For example, in a drawing produced to a scale of 1 in. to the foot, each inch measured off on the drawing will stand for twelve inches on the actual job. A convenience of the method lies in the fact that, by first drawing out a design on a much reduced scale, it is possible to judge of its ultimate appearance and proportions before proceeding with a full size setting out. Apart from this advantage, it should be noted also that a scale drawing, accurately figured as to dimensions, is often all that is required for the guidance of a really practical man.
Questions are sometimes encountered in the City and Guilds examinations, the answers to which entail use of scale drawings. A typical test of this kind would require the student to set up a main drawing of, say, a bookcase to a given scale. Certain constructional features would perhaps need to be shown to a different scale, while the mouldings and ornament would probably be asked for in full size.
Full-size drawings. Two methods are used for the production of full-size drawings. The first is to set up the drawing upon detail paper — a thin, tough paper that is specially suitable for subsequent blue-print production.
The other method consists in setting out the job in section on a rod or skid, generally in the form of a prepared (surfaced) board 8 ins. or 9 ins. wide and of suitable length.
The paper drawing. When a paper full sizing is set up, the various views of the job are superimposed one upon another: they are made distinguishable from each other by means of different colours. Thus, the main elevation would be drawn in black, the plan in red, and sectional details blue. The advantage claimed for this method—apart from the convenience of having only one sheet of drawings—is that it ensures accuracy in setting out, due to the fact that the various sections check against each other.
Often it is sufficient to set out only half of the main elevation and plan—that is, of course, when the two halves (right hand and left hand) of a job are similar. Dimensions in such a case are taken from a clearly marked centre line. The sectional view is shown in the ordinary way.
Full-size drawing on paper is especially suitable for the representation of “feature” work, i.e., elaborate cabinet pieces and woodwork that has much carved or inlaid detail to be shown. Special veneering treatments are also most readily conveyed in this way.
Figured dimensions are to be recommended, and it should be noted that such measurements should be arranged to check against over all sizes.
Happy belated Father’s Day to all you dads out there. Hopefully everyone had a relaxing weekend filled with sunshine, good food and a great build. I am not sure if ours was relaxing but we did get good pictures of dragging our toddler around behind the boat in a tube. This is a form of initiation into our family so it made it a big weekend. It was also a big weekend on the forum as a lot of people seem to be wrapping up projects. Remember, if you have a question about our products, procedures in our books or anything related to Lost Art Press, the fastest way to get an answer is our forum. Check it out here.
‘Finally got the staked chair dry fit.’
Daniel has made headway on his staked chair from “Anarchist’s Design Book” and has the pictures to prove it. Also, the personal touch to his crest rail shows how every project can be made your own.
Old Bench Screws
William’s wife found an old leg vice screw (right) in amish country and he is looking to put it to use. The question is: is it in good enough shape? There seem to be two solutions. Either way it is fun to look at.
Sash Planes
The vice screw isn’t the only antique tool being discussed. Adam acquired a set of wooden sash planes (picture at top) and had a few questions about sharpening and setting the blades.
Soft Wax
If you have any questions about making your own soft wax, my guess is that they are probably answered somewhere in this thread. It is definitely something to read if you are about to give it a go.
Shaker Bench Designs
Kevin finished his trestle table and is looking to make benches that go with. Style, height and stability were the original questions but it seems that Chris has made a bench that might serve as a good model. On a side note, this is the thread that has the beautiful Atelier Marolles furniture in it.
I went out of town for one weekend and it seems like the forum exploded while I was gone. A lot of advice is what people are after. Remember, if you have a question about our products, procedures in our books or anything related to Lost Art Press, the fastest way to get an answer is our forum. Check it out here.
Wear to the Sliding Tills in the ATC
We all know wear is inevitable, especially to something you use as often as your tool chest. Joshua is looking to make his in a way that will prevent some of this from the start. A couple preventative measures have been given, perhaps you want to give them a try? Perhaps you have other methods that have worked for you?
WoodOwl Bits – Sharpening
Jason hit a steel plate with his WoodOwl nail chipper and is curious to know if he can use the small knife-edge files that Lee Valley sells to sharpen it. Are they the same angle? Help him out here.
Soft Wax
Has anyone used a wax recipe on their tools as a rust preventative or to lubricate? Did you have success? And did you use a specific wax recipe?
‘I remember a post on here a while ago about a leg vise with no lower guide’ Peter is looking to add a leg vise to his bench and is thinking about taking this approach. It turns out it is the bench from Plate 11 in Roubo. Now it seems he is not the only one looking to use this method. Has anyone given this a shot and able to give some feedback?
Moulding Plane Choices
Anyone have a favorite older wooden moulding plane? Neal wants to get one and is looking for suggestions. What shape do you like? Why? Ogee? Reverse ogee?
This is an excerpt from “Roubo on Marquetry” by André-Jacob Roubo. Translation by Donald C. Williams, Michele Pietryka-Pagán & Philippe Lafargue. The translators’ additions to the text are in brackets. Roubo’s asides are in parentheses.
Figure 4 represents a composition with dice or cubes, placed on a background of whatever color; these dice or cubes are hexagons, placed side by side, in a manner such that their points touch each other, as you can see in this figure.
Each of these hexagons, or figures with six sides, is composed of three lozenges of any colors assembled together to make the dice or cubes appear in relief. Lozenge C (which is the daylight side) is an example of the shape in question and is made in rosewood. Lozenge D, which is the top of the cube, is of grey or yellow wood. Lozenge E, which is the shade side, is of violet wood. The remaining space [unmarked but primarily horizontal] is of some other wood that one judges appropriate, provided that it differs in the color of wood that forms the cubes. The cubes should not only differ in color from that of the bottom, but also each lozenge comprising the cube should all be different from each other. One accomplishes this by choosing pieces darker in color from one side to the other, or even by passing them over hot sand, as I will teach later.
Figure 5 represents another section, which does not differ from that of which I just spoke, except that it does not have any remaining space or background like the last one. To the contrary, all the dice or cubes fit one inside the other without leaving any void space, which works quite well. However, it is good to observe when making this last type of section, to make a space or background between the cubes on top and on the bottom, as I have shown in this figure, which works much better than to see the ends of cubes cut up, as one does ordinarily, and which I have indicated by line F–G.
In general, whether the sections of which I am speaking are with a background as in Fig. 4, or without a background, as in Fig. 5, it is necessary to take great care when making the section that a whole number of cubes is found on the length, and that the uppermost end of these same cubes reach the banding or stringwork that surrounds them, as I have shown here. This is very easy to do since it is only necessary to adjust the proportions of the cubes according to the need, it not being absolutely necessary that the hexagon of the cubes be perfectly regular. Whatever way it can be done is the better way, and is so much easier to do when the three lozenges that compose the hexagon are of a similar shape, which does not ordinarily happen when the hexagon is of an irregular shape.
If one does not wish to make dice or projecting cubes, as in Fig. 5, one could make sections of cubes to fill the lozenges in a unified wood, which does not work badly when the joints are well made, as one can see in this figure. [This is in fact my favorite manner of preparing a composition such as this. I find the subtlety much more to my taste, especially when using a wood with a fine grain pattern with a noticeable difference from early wood to late wood, such as bald cypress on the radial plane.]
Figure 6 represents a section with mixed stars, which is a section that is very complex in appearance; however, it is only hexagons, as that of H, I, L, M, N, O, which approach and penetrate each other, so that the point of whichever star, becomes the center of another. It is necessary to observe in making these sorts of sections that one finds, as much as possible, a number of hexagons complete in height as is found in this figure, so that the bottom or void remaining at the points of the stars be similar at the bottom as at the top, which could not be if the section bordered by the line P–Q , of which the distance to the top-most stringwork of the section, contains only one-and-a-half hexagons in height. As for the length of this type of section, taken in the direction that is represented in Fig. 6, it is not important only that the number of hexagons be complete. It suffices that no points of the stars be cut along the same line, so that this section be as perfect as is possible to be.
These sorts of sections can be made with a projecting appearance, or be filled with segments of the same wood, which is equal for the form and disposition of the joinery, which is always given by the parallel lines, horizontal and perpendicular, and [rather than being comprised of lozenges] by equilateral triangles, of which the tops are opposite one another. Inspecting this illustration alone is by itself better than all the explanations that one can give.
Figure 7 represents another section, composed of octagons or figures with eight sides, placed in stars with eight sides, which all come to a point in the center. The stars that compose these sections touch each other on their perpendicular and horizontal faces at two points, which produces between them a squared space. This space is filled with the point of a diamond, as in the height of this figure, made from the background veneer. The other squared voids, which produce the return of the points of these same stars, being larger than those of which I just spoke above, are filled in by other stars with four points or some other element placed on the base, which distinguishes them from the rest of the work, as I have shown in the upper part of this figure, of which the stars as much as the points of the diamonds have an obvious [apparent] relief.