
Many of my classes include the instruction to “just put a bead on it.” A bead on the edge of a board protects fragile corners from breaking off, because by rounding it over into a bead, said fragile edge is gone. A bead also creates a shadowline, which helps to make a gap (say, between backboards) look intentional. I love a bead!
But the intrinsic problem with beads is that they can get you into trouble. A beading plane is just so darn fun to use that you will quickly find yourself in want of other sizes and other moulding planes…not to mention a half-set of hollows and rounds. (There are worse vices.)
So where do you find good moulding planes these days? Maybe it’s just my bad luck, but I’ve never found vintage ones worth buying. A moulding plane must be dead straight down its length from heel to toe, and the fences and boxing must be intact. If any of these things is not true, that ex-plane is best used as Cracker Barrel decor. Then there’s the iron. Does its profile perfectly match the plane’s sole? If not, you need to know how to fix it so it does (which is not easy without ninja-level filing/grinding skills and a good set of slipstones). And does the wedge hold the blade firmly in place? Is it even the original wedge? All this is to say that if you know what you are doing plus have a modicum of good luck, you might be able to find a good deal on some old wooden moulding planes. But I never have.
And you can, of course, make your own. There are good articles available online, and Larry Williams’ video “Making Traditional Side Escapement Planes” is hard to beat.
But I recommend buying new – especially if you’re buying just one plane…say a 3/16″ beading plane like the one you might have used in my classes.

I’m sure I’m missing a few good modern makers (feel free to comment below…as I know you will), but the modern commercial makers I recommend and from whom you can still buy (all will likely have a waitlist) are:
M.S. Bickford
J. Wilding
Red Rose Reproductions
New Heritage Woodworks
Philly Planes (caveat – Phil Edwards is in the U.K. Some might argue his planes are better suited to staying in their native environment, but I’ve been happy with my Philly beader for years and have had no trouble – but I live in a damp river valley with similar weather, different accent)

Yes, you could also use a Stanley No. 45 or 55, or the Veritas Combination Plane – but I’m a sucker for a good wooden moulder.
– Fitz
p.s. If You want to know how I sharpen a moulding plane blade, check out Christopher Schwarz’s “Sharpen This” – the pdf is a free download – see the first paragraph here for the link.






