Welcome to Open Wire, our bi-monthly Woodworking Q&A session.
Until 5 p.m. today, you can post your questions in the comment section below, then Chris and I, along with your fellow readers if they wish, will answer.
I’m writing this post about a week ahead of time, but it’s fairly safe to assume that as you read this, Chris is working on a chair in between his answers, and I’m unpacking from one teaching trip and getting ready for the next one (as is Chris – we’ll both be at the London International Woodworking Festival in two weeks).
Our final Open Wire of the year is on December 12.
– Fitz
Two questions: 1) Do you have any recommendations regarding the Veritas pull-shave? 2) Have you tried using catalpa wood in a chair, say an Irish-y stick chair? Our local lumber seller has some lovely 4/4 X 12” x 8’ pieces for sale. They say it doesn’t split well. Wood DB says : stable, works well, a softer less strong hardwood, beautiful grain, used for fence posts and furniture.
Thanks!
Hi Evan,
I’ve never been able to make friends with the pull shave. The tool and my hand position tend to block my view as I work. So I prefer a traditional travisher.
And I’ve never used catalpa for anything, I’m afraid. So I don’t have any exerience to share, I’m afraid.
Hello Chris.
How deep do you ream the tapered leg mortises? I made a mistake and reamed until the narrow end was far enough in to contact the circumference of the seat top hole. As I corrected the angle of the reamer, it turned the top opening into a keyhole.
And, any tips on setting up the veritas tapered tenon maker? I find it tough to get the top to match the 5/8″ hole.
Thanks for spending the time to do this.
Les
Hi Les,
I don’t use the tapered reamer much in my work these days. I mostly stick to cylindrical mortises and tenons. When I do use it, I ream most of the way through the mortise. But I try to leave a little bit of cylindrical mortise if possible.
On setting up the tapered tenon cutter, I don’t worry too much about hitting 5/8″ at the tip. The tenon is tapered, so it will (eventually) fill the tapered hole when I drive it home. The goal is to get the slope correct so the tenon will stick in the mortise. Using the little marks cast into the body of the tool, I usually set the blade to 1 mark (from the outside) at the tip of the tool. And 3 marks at the opening.
Very helpful. Thank you.
I am curious if you still like the Pentel graphgear 1000.
I have been using them since your post mentioning them a ways back.
.5 for paper
.9 for the coarse and obnoxious materials that I measure, mark, and cut.
If you have a different pencil that you prefer, can you share the name.
Not sponsored, of course.
That is still one I am happy to reach for when marking out dovetails. But for classes, I buy inexpensive BIC Xtra-Precision Mechanical Pencils … because I don’t always get them all back!
I have not found a better pencil. The only trouble I have with the graphgear is that sometimes debris from my shop apron clogs the mechanism. Shavings get into the opening at the tip and prevent the tip from extending.
Hi Megan and Chris,
is Matthew Bickford’s book on building moulding planes still in the works?
What titles are expected to come out the upcoming year?
Thanks a lot for this open wire and for all LAP things you do,
Yoni
It is! I’m hard at work on it now, and editing the final section. Next up for me is Elia Bizzarri’s on Samuel Wing. We’ll also have a revised edition of “Make Fresh Milk Paint” out soon, Jarrod Dahl’s “Axis Mundi” on turning (in its final stages before going to press), Dr. Mike Epworth’s “Wild Line: The Past and Future of the Jimmy Possum Chairmaking Tradition,” a new artisan geometry book from Jim Tolpin and George Walker, two on design – one from Jeff Miller and another from Chris Becksvoort, Albert Klein on marquetry…and no doubt a title or two I’m forgetting
My chute plane factory blade is a Veritas 35 degree bevel up bedded 12 degrees with a slight micro bevel. It tends to chatter on end grain of hard woods like Bolivian Rosewood or hickory. Do you think a higher angle is called for?
A higher angle will likely make the chattering problem worse. Three typical solutions:
Thanks for that and today’s service!
I’m out of town so my tool-boxing is on hold, but when I return next week I’ll be zipping the top off my version of your small T&G tool chest, fitting up hinges and bails and latches, and mulling over interior fitments.
Do you intend to write up some specifics about how you’d fit out the lid and interiors, or is this a personal thing that depends more on one’s own tools and needs and wants (as I write this I’m thinking “Yeah well, of course it is”… It’s not like there’s any lack of resources, not least under the LAP imprint …)
So yeah, sure. We’ll see where this one goes 🤨😂
I haven’t started work on that section of the book yet. So you are ahead of me….
Hey guys,
In season 25 of the Woodwright’s shop, Roy builds a “cabinet workbench” or “high bench” that he says is based off a design by Charles Hayward. I was wondering if the design was included in any of the Hayward books published by lap? My best guess would be the Woodworker Vol IV, but wanted to check.
Thanks
Dan
Greetings,
Thanks for doing this again!
Q: in making side hung drawers, (re: your recent blog posting with Peter’s new book) the groove is in the drawer sides, and the carrier is in the carcass side. It seems like putting the carrier in the drawer, and the groove in the carcass would make a stronger drawer. Any historical or otherwise reasoning for putting the groove in the drawer? Many thanks!
If the carrier spline is in the drawer side, the groove must be exposed on the face of the carcass. It’s neater the other way.
I’m pretty good at wedging/leveling/scribing chair leg bottoms but struggle with the actual sawing. I’m fairly accurate with hand sawing in general but I can’t seem to follow the too-many lines on an octagon. It’s also confusing when clamping the angled leg so that the saw cuts are perpendicular to the floor. I’d appreciate some suggestions or references in your books. Thanks.