How to Install Butt Hinges

When I can’t afford the fancy forged hinges (or would rather spend that money elsewhere), I most often reach for 2-1/2″ butt hinges from Horton Brasses (item PB-409, about $42 per pair, including screws and shipping). And while butt hinges are available at any hardware store and at a range of price points (some incredibly cheap in both price and quality), I know the extruded brass Horton hinges are always exactly the same and thus interchangeable. I can use one I have on hand to lay out the mortises, and when the new set arrive, I know they’ll fit. (That, however, is perilous behavior – indulge in it at your own risk.) And I know they’ll come with the finish-matched slot-head screws I request. And no, I get no kickbacks from Horton Brasses (or anyone else).

This is a more minimalist look than strap hinges of any kind, but I like the way they look, and they take up zero usable surface area on the chest. Plus, I always have extra hinges on hand from other projects when I buy two sets because I need three hinges.

My starting point for locating these is to go by an old rule: Measure the overall width of the lid (or door or other surface to be hinged) and divide by two. That number is the distance between the hinges – or at least a good starting point. I often bump them out a little more. With the help of a square, knife a line at the location for the outside edge of the hinge. And I always mark the outside edges on every hinge, every time. If I follow the same steps no matter the project, the less likely I am to screw up.

Align the hinge to the first mark, then use the hinge itself to guide the knife as you mark the other end. Try not to slip and scratch the hinge – especially if you chose an antique finish, as it scratches somewhat easily.

Set a cutting gauge to the thickness of the hinge plate, then scribe the mortise baseline from edge to edge on both faces.

Saw to the baseline. Or use a chisel to cut a V in the waste toward the line (a relief cut), then place the chisel, bevel toward the waste in that V with the tool perpendicular to the work, then give it a good smack to reach the baseline. Pare out the waste, or do it with a small router plane (which is overkill … but fun), or a combination of the two.

With the waste removed, test the fit (and I always put the leaf with the barrel piece reaching to the edges on the carcase; the leaf with the cutouts at the end goes on the lid). If all is well, punch the locations for the pilot holes. Why a punch instead of eyeballing it with an awl or pencil? The punch has sloped edges to fit the countersink, so the point automatically finds the center. Eyeballing it can also work – but my eyesight is less reliable than my centerpunch. And the punch (with adjustable pressure for different hardnesses of wood) is awfully fun to use.

Have your marking knife close at hand, then place the lid atop the chest and center it side to side with the back edge butted against the hinge barrels. I set an adjustable square to my best guess on one edge, then show the square to the other edge. Adjust right to left as necessary, then hold it tightly in place. Or have a friend do it for you.

With your marking knife, flat side always against the hinge, nick a mark on the back corner of the lid where the barrel meets it on both ends of both hinges. Make sure the mark is deep enough that you can see it, but be wary of pushing too hard, as that can move the lid out of alignment. It needs to remain still while you make all four marks.

If you used a less reliably made brand of hinges, mark each for its location on the chest so you know which one goes back where, then remove them. You’ll need to use the mated hinge leaf on that exact hinge to mark the mortise on the underside of the lid.
If you used a reliably made brand – that is, you know they are interchangeable, you can remove just one … or none, if you happen to have an extra handy.

Fold the hinge over the mortise location (make sure you have the correct leaf), then mark around it with a marking knife (flat side toward the hinge) – or a thin pencil (0.5mm) if you’re afraid of nicking the finish on your hinge. But the knife will provide better accuracy.

Set your marking gauge to the hinge leaf’s thickness if it’s not still set. Or if you’re using a small router plane, set that to the thickness. Either can be used to mark the baseline on the angled edge of the lid (fencing off the flat underside). If you use the router plane here, turn it so one corner of its blade cuts the wood as you drag it to score a baseline.

Chisel or rout out the waste. Deepen the edges of the mortise with a wide chisel as needed – and be careful at the front edge of the mortise; that’s a long-grain cut. If you hit too hard there, the wood will split. If it does, don’t panic. Just pull the chisel out of the cut, then remove the waste on the chisel floor up to the line. If you still need to remove waste at the shoulder, use a sharp knife instead of a chisel.

Reattach the hinges on the back of the chest (if you took them off), then place the chest on its back, and the lid with the inside face up, on your bench. Slide the lid into position at the back edge until the hinges meet their mortises. Punch the hole locations, then drill and drive the screws.