It’s time for our bi-montly Open Wire, where you can pose your woodworking questions in the comments section below and we’ll do our best to answer them. Comments will close at around 5 p.m.
Note that there may be a lag between your asking and our answering. Chris is probably working on a chair, and I’m working on…healing. And editing the revised edition of “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” (photos for which are happening above).
– Fitz
Do you have any experience with the Veritas Pullshave for saddling a chair seat? Is it passable as a scorp, travisher, both, neither? Right now I don’t own a travisher or scorp but am looking to make my first stick chair. Thanks!
I haven’t used one in years, I’m afraid, so I don’t have a worthwhile opinion. Now that they’re available again, I’ll pick one up and give it a go.
Good morning, a question about the Crucible holdfasts. Absolutely love the two I have. The description mentions they are cast in a foundry in Illinois. What town and foundry specifically is it that produces them? Thank you!
Lemfco in Galena, Ill.
Good morning! As always, thanks for taking to the time to help us! I just drilled the holes in the seat for the back sticks of my first Gibson chair. I did it just as Chris does in the video, even using the same spade bit. When I went to try the sticks they were WAY too tight. On inspection I discovered that the holes were slightly curved — as the drill formed the hole, it slightly walked away from me toward the front of the seat, I presume because of the extreme angle. It seems like after the full circumference of the hole was cut into the surface of the seat then the drill went straight after that. I was able to get the sticks to fit by using a Woodowl bit that cuts on the sides (as you mention in the video) but there’s a gap on the back of the hole. I hope this explanation makes sense. Any tips to deal with this for the next chair? Cheers!
Unfortunately, the answer is: practice. The drill bit didn’t wander, the driller did. Gaps around sticks are a problem until you learn to hold the drill motionless (hint: brace it against your body whenever possible). That’s when gaps disappear.
Aww, that’s no fun! 😉 Ok, advise noted. Practice it is!
Hi Iain, a trick that I learnt from Derek Cohen’s website is to drill a pilot hole first, using a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the brad-point on a spade bit or the snail on an auger.
Not only does this help guide the larger bit but it reduces the level of force required to drive the drill to a surprising degree. For example I have drilled one inch holes in a hardwood seat using a brace and spade bit without undue effort.
I think not having to apply so much pressure helps in keeping the bit from wandering. It works for me, not sure what Chris’s view would be, admittedly it is an extra step…..
Hey folks–thanks for doing these! My question is about installing hinges. I’ve always done it the way you all do it, but then, for my last cabinet project (in apple!), I dug out my copy of Wearing’s The Essential Woodworker and followed his method, which you all excerpted in this post: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/09/07/how-to-hinge-a-door-a-la-robert-wearing/. Basically, you cut in sloped mortises for the hinges…. It was alot more work, I had some unfortunate experiences with hinge screws coming out the face of the stile…. I don’t think I’ll follow that method again. My question for you all is 1) have you ever followed Wearing’s methond and 2) Why would someone follow Wearing’s method (is it just so that the hinge-side sightiline is uninterrupted?) Thanks!
It’s a 20th century British thing. I don’t know of any other accounts of this in the historical record. I’ve always wondered about it as well. Sorry I don’t have a good answer for you.
Good morning!
I used India ink on my first stick chair. The ink didn’t adhere to the durhams rock hard putty so bow I have a black chair with white spots on it. Any suggestions? I was thinking of trying black milk paint over the entire thing.
Also ai need to make a wider stick chair with a comb that is 2 or 3″ taller than the ones in the book. Any tips or things I should think about?
Lastly is there an easy way to search the comments from previous open wires?
Thanks so much!
Josh
That’s wild that the ink didn’t stick to the putty. It’s so porous. I think the milk paint is a good idea, but I would first try painting only the putty (not the whole chair) and see how that looks. Both the ink and the milk paint have a dead flat sheen — you might get away with it.
On making a bigger chair, there’s no special tricks. Just add a few inches to the seat and arm, and make the sticks longer.
You can search past comments using this nifty tool: https://lap-open-wire-search.fly.dev/
Way to bury the lede! I’ve been wanting someone to create a searchable index for these invaluable comment threads!
GM! Sorry to combine two topics in one post:
I am thinking ahead to finishing two 7-stick comb back chairs – poplar seat and oak for all other parts. I plan on painting the chairs two different colors.
1) the finish will either be General Finishes Milk Paint or Heirloom Traditions All-in-One paint. How much paint is typically necessary for this chair if applying two coats?
2) Do you have any experience with the Heirloom Traditions brand?
My next chair is the Irish Stick Chair from FWW #311. I plan to use mulberry for the seat. I have several 2″ thick slabs that have been air drying for (3) years. The drying process created several checks. Do you have any caution against using mulberry for a seat?
This chair will also be painted, so I’m also wondering about filling the checks. I’ll trim the ends to remove any checking that runs out.
I’ve not used the Heirloom Traditions paint. Sorry. On the General Finishes, a pint will do a chair no problem.
On mulberry, I’ve never used it. I’ve never seen it for sale, in fact. Judging from its numbers in the Wood Database, it should be fine as seat material. The primary consideration for seats is that the wood should not be easy to split (like oak). If the checks aren’t structural, you’ll be fine. But that’s not something I can judge without seeing the wood in person.
There’s a red oak in my yard that has to come down.
It about 80 feet tall with a 16 foot log at the base that looks (on the surface at least) to be free of knots. That log is straight but grows at about a 20 degree angle off vertical. I don’t know the perils of using reaction wood, other than it could be brash.
I know you and most people pay money for the wood you use, and for that reason wouldn’t be likely to use it to build anything.
Can you say – would I be wasting my time making chair parts and lumber with it ?
Because of the tilt of the tree, I’d be wary of it. Reaction wood is no fun – I’ve seen it pop apart in an industrial planer and stop the machine cold.
Me personally, I would pass.
Me too then. Thanks.
I’ve noticed that some woodworkers keep close by a leather strop with the green stuff and every hour or so they hone their chisels across it a few times. The claim is that this can (significantly) forestall the time of full sharpening. What is your opinion here and do you practice that?
It’s a carver’s approach to the work. You need to be quite practiced to do it so that you don’t round over the edge while stropping.
It’s not how I learned to work with traditional bench tools, so that’s not how I work (though there’s nothing wrong with the practice). But while engraving, I touch up the tool after every X cuts to keep the edge consistent.
I’m taking a 2 week trip to Europe very soon. Starting in Dublin, then Copenhagen, and ending in a longer excursion in Sweden. Where are some decent places to look for craftsman (not the brand) made tools as well as “peasantry’s” in any of those countries? I normally frequent antique places and flea markets, but I’m wondering if any of you have been to any you’d recommend in your travels. Also of you have any beer recommendations, I’m very welcome to such. I appreciate all of you LAP folks contributions to the woodworking community and I thank you for your time!
Go to every open-air museum you can (the Frielands Museet outside Copenhagen is world class and HUGE). You’ll find a lot of design-y stuff in Denmark. There is a tool seller in Ireland – the Carpentry Store – that I’ve heard good things about. The Museum of Rural Life in Ireland is outstanding (lots of Gibson chairs). If you can visit any of the Trappist breweries (Orval, Chimay) you will be blown away by the beer and the cheese.
I’m sure other readers have more suggestions.
Good morning folks. I caught a glimpse of the latest ATC & noticed what looks like a hasp on the lid. Where did you source it? Possibly Horton’s horizontal iron hasp? Thanks in advance!
That is the Horton Brasses HSP-4
I think the hasp is described in this blog post, correct Megan?
https://blog.lostartpress.com/category/dutch-tool-chests/page/5/
Yep – it’s the same one
Thank you both for doing this!
One for Chris – any modifications you would make to the hobbit-y chair from the Stick Chair Journal for a 6’7″, 230lbs sitter? (The chair will be in Sessile Oak)
One for Megan – I hope the recovery is going well. I really enjoyed your talk last year in London on Shaker furniture, and was wondering if you had any recommended reading for the social history of the Shakers?
Cheers!
Pip
Thanks – it’s going more slowly than I’d like, but it was never going to be fast enough! If you’re looking for the history side of things, not the furniture, I’d recommend “The Shaker Experience in America,” by Stephen J. Stein (Yale).
I’d increase the leg sizes to 1-7/8″ octagons. Maybe not taper them quite so dramatically.
Good morning Chris I hope you are well and Megan, I hope you are healing fast.
I’m completing another stick chair (my fifth!), this time in ash, and I’m thinking I’d like to give it a matte black finish.
What are your thoughts about using India ink? Advantages/disadvantages?
About how much would I need to do a chair?
What is the best way to apply (clean rag, foam brush, brush)?
Or, would it just be better to scrap the whole India ink idea and go with the general finishes black?
Many thanks for your insights.
I love India ink for black. I use this stuff:
https://www.dickblick.com/items/blick-black-cat-waterproof-india-ink-pint/
One bottle will do a few chairs. I apply it with a brush. It dries very quickly. You need three coats if you want black. Then I put a low-sheen finish on it: oil, or soft wax.
Chair repair question: I completed the TWW American Welsh stick chair in mid-August. About 3 weeks ago I noticed the arm bow had split cross-ways at one of the stick holes. The split is under the shoe and except for some minimal separation adjacent to the back of the split the glue joint seems to be holding. What’s your suggestion to minimize chances of the arm failing altogether?
I’d probably screw the arm pieces to the shoe from underneath. A very typical stick chair repair….
Do you have plans to write a book on finishing? Similar to your book Sharpen This? Thanks
At one point, yes – but here’s the skinny: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2020/11/30/rip-the-anarchists-finishing-manual/
That book is still on my to-do list.
I came across this copy of By Hand and Eye at a Half Price Books in Northeast Ohio. I can’t quite decipher what is written on the cover, but my guess it is a reference to the type of paper used. Was this copy a proof of some sort?
https://imgur.com/a/BQzeCXk
My guess is it refers to the paper, but I do not know why that’s written on the cover; we don’t typically do that.
That is the paper weight we use. I might have been sent out by our printer as a sample to a potential customer. Very common practice.
Good morning. It appears that between the plans in the Stick Chair Book and the FWW article on the Curved-Back Armchair the stick tenons into the seat changed from 1″ to 3/4″ diameter. What’s the thought process in choosing the appropriate tenon size?
The 3/4″ are plenty strong and look better (to my eye). Feel free to use either in your version.
Hi, I am wondering what the requirements are for “sandwich drilling”. Do all of the sticks need to be in a straight line and at the same angle? And, how do you figure where the height of the arm will end up?
Thanks, Deke
They don’t need to be in a straight line at all. But they all have to be at the same angle.
If you build the peasant chair from The American Peasant (it’s free) out of junk wood, you will understand more about sandwich drilling than words can tell you.
The offset of the arm and seat is calculated with a full-size drawing (on paper or CAD).
I woke up at o-dark-thirty this morning and couldn’t get back to sleep.
Went in the shop to layout and cut some dovetails…and did this: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pESQMR3wfEREybet5 . Namely, I cut off one of my tails. I’m inclined to go ahead and finish the joint without this tail (there are 4 per joint) and add a tail-shaped piece after the fact. Maybe even dowel it in place.
Recommendation on an easier way? This is shop furniture akin to the rolling base for the DTC so it doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect.
Thx, MarkM
Huh, answering my own question maybe? Don’t cut out for the half-pin on the end and cut it into a half-tail resulting in a super long pin? Hmm.
If you want to do a tail implant, I’d glue it back on with CA for transfer, then (assuming it falls off during assembly) just pop it in place with whatever glue you’re using for assembly. It would not be the first time I’ve seen this done 😉
But as you note, you can also turn that remaining half-pin wood into a half tail, and have a large pin in that wide socket.
Either will work just fine.
I watched Chris’s video about turning cylindrical tenons in a lathe. In this video, Chris uses a sizing tool in conjunction with a parting tool to get the tenon to the right diameter.
Is using the sizing tool a big improvement over the ol’ parting-tool-in-one-hand-and-calipers-in-the-other approach?
Yes!
Thank for offering your time like this, it is really appreciated.
Other than species and glue selection, are there any other considerations when making a stick chair that would spend much of it’s time outdoors? I’m in Virginia, so they would see all types of weather. I’d probably not saddle the seat and I’m OK with painting them.
thanks.
Use a rot-resistant species (white oak, for example). Consider using a waterproof glue (epoxy). And paint it with linseed oil paint. Repaint it when the paint wears thin.
How would stick chairs survive outside? Would you change anything about the design/construction if you were going to keep one outside? Or are they best kept inside?
Use a rot-resistant species (white oak, for example). Consider using a waterproof glue (epoxy). And paint it with linseed oil paint. Repaint it when the paint wears thin.
Question on plane cubbies in tool chests (specifically the Dutch one). In Megan’s book, she makes her plane cubbies out of 2″ wide scrap stock (but mentions narrower stock – 1-3/4″). In the gallery section, an example shows maybe 1/4″ or 1/2″ tall dividers. What is the benefit of using the wider stock vs. narrower stock? I am thinking that the narrower stock (maybe 1″ or shorter) would make it easier to pick up smaller planes. Would narrower stock lead to the planes being jostled about when the tool chest is moved about. I am assuming that I am overthinking this.
Basically, any size works. I’ve seen some dividers that are only about 1/4″ tall, just to keep planes from banging into one another. But if you’re going to be moving the chest a lot (i.e. picking it up and slinging it around, as opposed to rolling it), I’d go with dividers that are at least 1″ tall. The taller they are, the less easily the planes can tip.
Large pin it is. Good reminder to be more careful. Also, this piece is going in a Makerspace. It’ll serve as a good example of what can go wrong. Many Thanks. Really enjoyed DTC and happy to add it to my LAP collection. Get well soon!
Thank you again for patiently answering questions and sharing knowledge today. I’ve kept track of your blog posts on drill bits over the years and have a list of recommended drill bits. I suspect you may not be still using all of them. It would also be great to know which one you use for what.
Do you still use and if so for what application: (1) Star-M auger bits (screw-like tip) (2) WoodOwl Ultra Smooth Tri-Cut Auger Bits (screw-like tip, I guess redundant if you have the Star-Ms) (3) Woodowl overdrive bits (pointy tip) apparently also like the Star-M F-type auger bits (4) Star-M 601 Precision Drill Bits for super-smooth holes and finally (6) the famous HSS brad point bits from Lee Valley. Thank you.
When you become a chairmaker, you also become an expert at bits. A lot of times, the bit I use is determined by what is available (the F-type bits are hard to come by).
So I use all the bits on your list except the Star-M augers. I don’t think I’ve ever used those.
Could you detail your process for squaring wide panels (bigger than shooting board size) such as those used in the ATC?
I found a blog post that briefly mentions it from a while back, but didn’t mention the process you use for the tweaking.
Clamp the panels together and to your bench. Use a framing square and a plane (block, smoother, whatever) to plane it square. Avoid spelching by planing toward the middle of the panel.
Thanks for doing these. There are always new things to learn just by reading the questions and responses.
A quick FYI about the links on the right side of the blog: the American Peasant link opens in the same window (target=”_self” or something similar), while Never Sponsored opens in a new tab/window (target=”_blank”).
Thanks. Will try to fix that.
Back at the first of the year Chris posted his finished fireplace surround in QSWO on Instagram. Someone posted a comment/question about the finish and Chris’s reply was “Minwax Stain and Softwax Topcoat”. What was the Minwax stain that was used. That finish not only looked good but seemed like a no fuss finish for QSWO, thanks in advance.
I use Minwax Provincial and Minwax Early American when I want a nice brown. That project used Provincial.
When making a Roubo bench, does it matter if the legs aren’t exactly the same width and depth, so long as they are pretty thick and wide, and are placed flush with the edges of the bench? So one could use a 6”x4” along with a 5 1/2” x 3 1/2” and be fine, no? The stetchers would also be flush to the front edges, of course. If so, I’d be spared a lot of dimensioning (hand-planing). Thanks!!
The legs don’t have to be the same size. Just get ‘er done.
I have a question on the Field Desk from the Campaign Furniture book. I’ve been working on building one, and when dealing with the hinges for the side stretchers I managed to shear off a few of the screws. I’m pretty sure I can get around/fix this problem (or just build new side stretchers), but before going to that effort can you tell me how sturdy this desk is/how well it has held up? I’m building it for my younger daughter, with the original theory being that it would be easy for her to get out of the way when she wanted to be more active/tumble in her bedroom. But it is taking me longer than I expected to it, so I’m not sure how much that feature matters anymore. And if it isn’t as sturdy I might just go with normal aprons.
And sorry Megan, the top is purpleheart as that is her favorite color. I’m figuring as it changes color she will appreciate the browner tone more as she ages 😋
Brass screws can be a pain like that. Use steel screws and a slightly larger pilot and you’ll be fine. That said, the brass screws on mine have lasted a long, long time.
Years ago you had a forum that you eventually shut down. I recall it still being accessible for searching, but wasn’t able to access/find it recently when I went looking for it. My guess is it is no longer accessible, but just wanted to check. (And I saw the link above about searching the Open Wire comments. That’s awesome).
The forum was hosted by muut, I can’t seem to access it either.
Chris and Megan: with regard to the glue recipe you have generously provided, have you determined any shelf life for it? Also, it sounds like you suggest for best results to keep refrigerated when not in use and then warm it up in a warm pot of water. Is there any limit to how many times you can take it from the fridge to warm or is it an indefinite amount of times? Thank you.
If you treat the glue well, it can easily last three years (I have seen titebond hide glue that has lasted even longer).
Keeping it sealed and in a cool, dry place is usually enough. We keep it in the fridge because it’s easy for us to do, and it repels bacterial attack (which is what can break the glue down).
There is no known limit to how many heats that hide glue can endure.
Good morning, as always your expertise and time are much appreciated. Is the dog in the picture a new member of the team or just visiting. In either case it looks a beauty. Am I right in assuming he/she is just past the puppy stage?
That was Barley, the dog of our photographer Narayan Nayar. He’s less than a year old and a total sweetheart.
Lucy is a cat person, so this will forever be a cathouse.
I have a couple holdfast holes in my bench that are bot plumb and the hold fast only grabs when pointed towards the back of the bench. Is there a way to fix these other than plugging them and trying again?
Not that I know of.
Good morning, I thought I remember seeing that there is a chair makers notebook 2 in the works. Any idea when this might come out? I thought I read that this has techniques to steam bending kiln dried wood for those of us without a good source of green wood.
Thanks!
I haven’t heard an update from Peter Galbert in a while. Right now his life is all about fixing up his house/barn/school.
Good Morning!
Is there any update on the release date of the chair makers notebook 2? I’m very interested in the steam bending kiln dried wood techniques.
Thank you
What do you think of Richard Maguire’s dovetail method — basically he puts the outside face of the tailboard (tails first) facing away, then instead of cutting dead straight along the waste side of the line, removes the pencil line on the on the inside corner of the tail and just barely keeps it on the outside of the tail. This creates a very subtly wedge-shaped tail, and as you fit the joint, it starts out a little loose and tightens as you tap it together. I had never seen this before, and found it very interesting.
I’m practicing dovetails every day for a month using the excellent instructions in Dutch Tool Chests, then I might try this out to see how it compares.
I’ve never heard of this method. That shouldn’t be a surprise because I don’t have time to follow everyone out there. I do love Richard (very sweet and funny guy). So give it a go if Richard says so….
Good morning. Two questions. Did you ever find a recommendation for the chamfering tool ? I ordered one but it was crap with no edge. Second, for the Irish-y chair with 1″ tenons, can you use the dowel making tool you wrote about to make the tenons ? I have a lathe but its bed is only long enough for the short sticks (more of a pen making lathe).
Many thanks for all of this.
Also, I recently started a job that brings me through CVG pretty regularly so it’s great to be able to stop by. I actually got to see Rumpke mountain this week 🙂
I still haven’t been able to find one that isn’t crap. Believe me when I say: I will.
You can use the dowel gizmo for tenons. But saw the shoulder first if you want a clean shoulder. The tool makes a mess.
Good morning- Re: The American Peasant- Some months ago Chris published a dictionary of spells. I printed it off at the time, but do you think i can find it? Searching the blog has been unsuccessful, so could you please point me to where i might download it again? thanks
That was an excerpt from “American Peasant.” You can download the book for free here: https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/american-peasant-signed-by-the-author
Chris, thanks for the answer on sandwich drilling. A few more…
You mentioned somewhere that Chris Williams uses “direct drilling” without sight lines. What does that mean?
In the ADB you use huge 2″ diameter tenons for the tables in that book. Is that determined based on the diameter of the legs or something else?
Finally, have you had any experience or even seen the Melbourne Tool Company large router plane?
Thanks! Deke
Chris uses two sliding bevels to guide him while drilling the tenons for the legs. He uses 0° sightlines (straight ahead) for drilling the mortises for the back sticks. It’s all outlined in his book if you want details.
On the 2″ tenons, that’s what I thought I needed for the tables. And I have yet to be proven wrong.
And I have not seen the Melbourne Tool router. Sorry.
Good morning! I’m building a 7 stick comb back chair. The seat is 1 1/2″ thick ash with tapered sliding dovetailed battens for a total thickness of 2 1/8″. I moved mortise locations to center the tapered leg motises in the battens. When I drilled the back sticks at 16 degrees one motise on each side intersected the bottom 1/2″ of the tapered leg motise. Should I preemptively glue a short plug in the bottom of the back stick motises and recut the taper of the leg motise with the reamer? My concern is that the back stick would be pushing on the leg in the wrong direction.
Alternatively, is the simple solution better to leave the intersecting motises and just cut the tenon on these two back sticks short? I’m also open to hearing that I have seat shaped firewood.
Thanks!
-Steve
that’s what I was hoping to hear. Thank you!
Thank you for that link to your Open Wire search tool! Just as an experiment I ran a search on “dovetail”, and was astonished at the wealth of comments it found on that single term. I’ve been also experimenting with various AI search tools in recent months, and my favorite has come Perplexity. So I was curious to see what a related search using that would produce. The results it returned were COMPLETELY different from your own search tool, but I thought you may be interested to see what it says about LAP Open Wire in the dovetail context. It’s VERY HIGH praise indeed, and well-deserved too!
Lost Art Press open wire dovetail
If you’re interested in Lost Art Press’s “Open Wire” and dovetail techniques, you’re likely seeking expert woodworking guidance, practical tips, and perhaps community-driven Q&A on dovetails—whether hand-cut or sliding. Lost Art Press’s Open Wire sessions are a unique resource for woodworkers, offering direct access to seasoned professionals and lively discussions about joinery, tools, and historical methods. Here are some recommendations to help you engage with this resource and deepen your dovetail skills.
Lost Art Press Open Wire Blog Series
The Open Wire sessions on the Lost Art Press blog are a goldmine for anyone interested in dovetails—whether you’re troubleshooting technique, debating tail spacing, or exploring sliding dovetails for chairmaking. These nearly-weekly Q&A threads allow you to ask questions directly to experts like Christopher Schwarz and Megan Fitzpatrick, with responses grounded in deep experience and historical context. What sets Open Wire apart is the blend of practical, real-world advice and encouragement to experiment—plus, the archives are searchable, making it easy to find past discussions on dovetail layout, waste removal, and tool recommendations. The main drawback is that Open Wire is only live on specific dates, but the searchable archives remain an invaluable resource year-round.
Dovetail Techniques and Tips from Lost Art Press
For hands-on dovetailing, Lost Art Press blog posts offer detailed, step-by-step advice on everything from efficient waste removal to achieving crisp, clean corners. Their guidance covers both traditional through dovetails and sliding dovetails, with nuanced tips like using a narrow chisel for waste removal or undercutting the waste for a tight fit. These posts are ideal if you want to refine your hand-tool skills, understand historical practices, or troubleshoot common dovetailing challenges. The main advantage is the depth and clarity of instruction, though you may need to search through several posts to find answers to highly specific questions.
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Participating in Open Wire isn’t just about getting answers—it’s about joining a vibrant woodworking community. You’ll find discussions on everything from dovetail spacing in historical chests to the merits of different finishing techniques, all with a friendly, approachable tone. This ongoing dialogue helps you stay motivated, learn from others’ experiences, and even influence future Lost Art Press projects. The only limitation is the asynchronous nature of blog comments, but the engagement and sense of camaraderie more than make up for it.
Which would be your preferred woods for the interior of the ATC? Was Chris happy with the mahogany and did he use it across the board? Thank you.
While making another chair from the SCJ #1 in oak, the seat has opened up at the glue seam. My first thought was to use a mending plate underneath but with the under bevel I am not sure it would be very effective. I was thinking of possibly installing a Dutchman on the side of the seat. Have you tried this me before? Any thoughts?
Thank you.
I should have said the opening is right on the outside edge of the seat and is very small.