— Charles Hayward, The Woodworker magazine, 1949
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LostArtPress on InstagramWalnut Bookcase by Steve Latta. @steve_latta_woodworking (2002). Walnut. 50" high x 32-1⁄2" wide x 13" deep. Photo Courtesy of Fine Woodworking. — from “The Difference Makers” by Marc Adams @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking #The_Difference_MakersThe chip breaker (One shown mounted on an iron, and one detached) is a separate piece of mild steel, profiled to a knife edge and clamped to the back of the plane iron with a screw. The knife edge of the chip breaker is set just back from the cutting edge of the iron. When planing off very thick shavings during rapid stock removal (“hogging”), any grain reversal in the board would have you momentarily planing against the grain, with the risk that a shaving might split down into the surface. This will tear out small chunks of wood in the process, leaving a roughened surface (tear-out). The chip breaker functions by bending the shaving back, breaking it off before much damage is done. For use with the planes described in this book, though, the chip breaker performs a different function. Most often, the shavings being made are so fine that the blade is not extending deeply enough into the wood to cause significant damage. Here, the chip breaker is brought up very close to the cutting edge— 1/64 to 1/32 inch—acting to stiffen and pre-tension the edge and helping to eliminate any tendency to chatter. At the very least, the chip breaker adds mass, a welcome addition to most wooden planes. — from “Making & Mastering Wood Planes” by David Fink #Making_and_Mastering_Wood_PlanesTrim the pins on the inside of the assembly any number of ways. You can saw them off or trim them with a chisel or gouge. Use the chisel bevel down and pare from both sides. Cutting straight across will blow out the edge of the pin. Trim the outside just above the surface with your tenon saw, then pare it down to the surface with a broad chisel, again held bevel down. Once the front and rear frames are assembled, trim their pins all around. Then set the frames face-down on the bench, with their feet pointing at each other. (Second image) If you marked your joints clearly, this step is a snap. If you didn’t, then it can be pretty confounding. Many of these pieces look alike, and sometimes they will almost fit together the wrong way. That’s enough to really cause confusion. We’ve built stools with parts upside down before. It’s not hard to do, but it is hard to un-do. — from “Make a Joint Stool from a Tree” by Jennie Alexander and Peter Follansbee @peterfollansbee #Make_a_Joint_Stool_from_a_Tree
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