From G.H.J., East Woodstock, Conn.— In answer to “C. C. S.” of Kansas City, Mo., I send photograph and sketch of a chest which I made of black walnut. dovetailed, and it may prove of interest to the correspondent in question. The chest is 20 x 30 inches and 18 inches deep, inside measurement. It has three drawers at each end, and the front side is a saw till 5 x 30 inches, outside measurement, which lifts out. The drawers are 10-1/2 x 15 inches and 2 inches deep, so partitioned as to suit the tools. The cover shown in Fig. 2 is 1-1/2 inches deep inside; the top has raised panels inlaid with 26 different kinds of wood. The panels have a border 1/4 inch wide and 1 inch from the edge all around. It is put in on a miter and has an emblem In the center of the middle panel, as shown. Fig. 3 is a photographic view, showing the chest with the cover raised and indicating the position of some of the tools.
— Carpentry and Building, January 1901. Thanks to Jeff Burks for digging up this letter. Much more from this series on chests to come.
From W. C. A., Detroit, Mich. — In the December number of Carpentry and Building, “C. C. B.” has Introduced the subject of tool chest construction, and In order to try and save it from the fate of former inquiries on that subject I will give the readers of Carpentry and Building my ideas of this phase of carpenter work. With the ordinary sliding tray or “Grandpa” chest only one side of the chest can be utilized; or, if both sides are used, then the tools must be dumped out on the floor every time one of the trays Is moved. The only solution of the problem is to put in drawers. In the September number for 1896 “D. T. C.” illustrates this, as well as “N.L.D.” in the August number for 1897. The latter correspondent has been requested to send drawings of his Improved large chest, but so far as I can discover he has not done so. In the May number for 1898 “Down South” says he has some original ideas on tool chest construction, and, although he has been asked, still, he has not sent his plans for publication. In behalf of about 75 percent of the wood butchers of the United States, all of whom are going to build the best chest in the world some time, I ask that both “N. H. D.” and “Down South” send in their plans.
I send a sketch, Fig. 1, of an idea that I am slowly developing as to what I consider a tool chest ought to be. It is to be noticed that there is one large drawer at the bottom and two smaller ones just above lt. The cover is made deep enough to hold the saws, squares and level. One tray and several partitions in the top should accommodate the planes and larger tools. A chest constructed on such a plan as this will have no waste room, and it will make a small, compact chest. I have planned this chest to be 18 x 30 Inches inside, with paneled ends and cover. The details of construction and partitions I leave for discussion. I hope the readers will take up the subject and not drop It until a perfect chest Is the result.
Note.—The suggestion of our correspondent is a good one and opens the way for a most excellent discussion of the subject of tool chest constructlon. We hope our practical readers will devote a part of the long winter evenings to preparing letters and sketches showing their ideas of what constitutes a satisfactory tool chest.
— Carpentry and Building, January 1901. Thanks to Jeff Burks for sending the letter. More from this series to come.
When I build stuff, my first joint of choice is the dovetail. It’s hard to beat or defeat.
But lately I’ve been pondering a common situation where a nail would be a better substitute for the much-lauded tail. It’s a bit of a trick to explain, but I am willing to try.
When you make sliding tills in a tool chest, they are difficult to fit because they are incredibly long (mine are about 36”) and not so wide (mine are about 8”). Because they are this peculiar shape, they have to be fit precisely and tightly so they do not rack inside the tool chest.
If they are even slightly loose, they will rack and bind. And you will then make bad words come out of your lip hole.
So you fit them precisely with a hand plane. It is not hard to do. The world smiles upon your efforts, and your tills move like they are sliding upon butter.
Fast forward 10 years.
You are a heavy user of your tool chest. You move the tills back and forth all day. The sides of the tills begin to wear. As they wear, a gap grows between the till and the wall of the chest. At some point, this gap becomes a problem and your tills begin to bind and resist your every pull.
I think it’s time to replace the till, but the dovetails in this till are good for another 200 years. In this case, a till that is nailed together might be the better choice.
For me, the real eye-opening moment came when I found some chests where the bottom tills were dovetailed and the top tills were nailed together and were obviously newer. Someone else had encountered this problem before me.
If you accept that your tills will wear and bind in short order, then the dovetail joint might not be the smart answer. Perhaps you should choose a joint that is strong enough but easy and quick to make, such as a rabbeted corner that is reinforced with nails.
I started thinking seriously about this idea after inspecting a lot of old (and not-so-old) tool chests. Hands down, the most common problems are: the tills bind and the bottom of the chest is rotted. You can fix the soggy bottom problem by putting your chest on cast aluminum wheels or living in a desert.
Fixing the binding tills isn’t an easy thing. You might consider repairing the tills – glue some extra wood to the sides of your tills and then plane them down until the tills move smoothly again. Of course, the tills have been lubricated with tallow, candle wax or oil for so long that getting anything to stick to them will be a miracle.
Here are some other solutions to consider.
1. Make the nailed-on bottom thicker. There will then be more end grain bearing against the chest and perhaps the tills will wear more slowly.
2. Use a recalcitrant wood for the bottom. Pick something like jarrah or some other wood that has metal-like properties. Perhaps the exotic wood will take longer to wear.
3. Add (ultra-high-molecular weight) UHMW plastic to the high-wearing areas. You’d probably have to epoxy the stuff in there, but this might work.
4. Use ball-bearing drawer slides for your tills. OK, this is kind of a joke, but it probably would work if you used a high quality slide, such as a Blum.
Or you can just remake your tills, which is a quick job if you nail them together, and get on with building furniture.
As you can tell, I’m struggling mightily with this. I love me some dovetails. But the nails might just be the smarter choice.
The winter 2012 issue of Furniture and Cabinetmaking magazine have called out two Lost Art Press books – “The Essential Woodworker” and “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” – as 12 of the “must-have titles for your workshop library.”
It’s an honor to be in a list of books that includes many of our woodworking heroes, including Charles Hayward, Jim Kingshott, Alan Peters and James Krenov.
The article praises Robert Wearing’s “The Essential Woodworker” as “a seminal text that every single woodworker should have to hand when undertaking any project.” I couldn’t agree more. Wearing’s book is one of the most important pieces of the puzzle in my personal development as a craftsman.
For “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest,” the magazine says it “makes a compelling case for the use of a traditional tool chest and shows readers how to build it well.”
In celebration of this, we will continue to do exactly what we’ve been doing since 2007. So back to editing A.J. Roubo.
Tim Talma reviewed “Make a Joint Stool from a Tree” by Jennie Alexander and Peter Follansbee in the latest issue of “Period Furniture,” the newsletter of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM).
“Although the joint stool outlined in the book is a simple project compared to other projects of the period, this book covers everything. This includes the history of 17th-century joined furniture, tools used in its construction, the wood and how to get it….”
While I love the title of this book, I sometimes think I should done a better job of emphasizing that this is a dead-nuts simple introduction to hand-tool woodworking with a minimum number of tools and the wood in your backyard. And it makes you want to build.
“The author’s enthusiasm for the subject definitely rubs off on the reader,” Talma writes, “and makes you want to go right out and build this stool, which I probably will do, once I find the right tree.”
I was also sent two new reviews of “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” from different points of view. Ludovic Drochon reviews the book in French here. And then goes on to describe how he built his chest (a nice red one) here.
The other review is on the Highland Woodworking blog by Kelley O’Toole and it is from the perspective of a beginning woodworker. Also cool: Our Lost Art Press books are featured on the cover of the latest Highland Woodworking catalog – a big honor in my book.
