Day 7: Purified/refined Linseed Oil
Finishing has gotten a lot easier here now that we have switched to raw linseed oil that has been purified/refined. These oils are lighter than your hardware store linseed oil, they dry fast and they don’t have any heavy metallic driers. You can use them on their own or in making your own finishes (such as soft wax or our “shop finish,” which is equal parts varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits).
We have used four brands that we can recommend. There are others out there, we just haven’t tried them.
- Viking Purified Linseed Oil from Earth+Flax
- Heron Paints Purified Linseed Oil
- Möbelolja from Selder & Company
- Allbäck Purified Raw Linseed Oil from Sage Restoration
This endorsement isn’t a knock against the other brands. As I said, we just haven’t tried them. No matter which brand you choose, you will be thrilled with this lighter oil in comparison to the stuff from the hardware store, which is gummy and thick in comparison.
– Chris
Did I miss day 4?
Nope…I did. Sorry! It is:
Day 4: Kakuri Wooden Nails
I have no idea how I haven’t encountered Kakuri wooden nails before, but I’m glad those days are over. These simple tapered wooden nails are matched to a tapered drill bit. You drill a hole, tip the nail with glue and drive it in. The taper locks the nail firmly in position. It’s a great fastener for securing a comb to a chair, or even nailing on a cabinet back – the nails hold amazingly well.
Amazon seems to be the primary supplier in the U.S., but you can get them elsewhere (eBay and Dictum) if you want to avoid Amazon. The nails are available in four diameters. I use mostly the 5mm ones.
The nails are hardwood – beech and birch – so they look better than bamboo skewers. And because the Kakuri nails are tapered, they hold much better.
Get some for your shop, even if you don’t have a particular application in mind. They come in real handy with repairs, plus anytime you need a discreet and strong fastener. Plus, they’re incredibly inexpensive for what you get.
Is this boiled linseed or just cold pressed? I remember reading somewhere that boiled linseed oil was a fire risk if soaked rags weren’t property disposed. I assume that doesn’t apply to unboiled linseed oil.
All linseed oil generates heat as it dries. So there is a fire risk if you wad up the rags
I thought the LAP shop finish was made with boiled linseed oil?
We switched to purified. It dries faster with no metallic driers.