Katherine managed to make another batch of wax this week. I’m guessing she has some vet bills to pay because Bean now has a younger brother. Meet Billy! He has a bobtail, and he pretty much purrs with happiness every moment he’s awake.
He also likes to wrestle – and so does Bean. It looks like a great match.
You can snag a jar of Soft Wax 2.0, which is now in her etsy store. You can watch a video of how to use the wax here.
Instructions for Soft Wax 2.0
Soft Wax 2.0 is a safe finish for bare wood that is incredibly easy to apply and imparts a beautiful low luster to the wood.
The finish is made by cooking raw linseed oil (from the flax plant) and combining it with cosmetics-grade beeswax and a small amount of a citrus-based solvent. The result is that this finish can be applied without special safety equipment, such as a respirator. The only safety caution is to dry the rags out flat you used to apply before throwing them away. (All linseed oil generates heat as it cures, and there is a small but real chance of the rags catching fire if they are bunched up while wet.)
Soft Wax 2.0 is an ideal finish for pieces that will be touched a lot, such as chairs, turned objects and spoons. The finish does not build a film, so the wood feels like wood – not plastic. Because of this, the wax does not provide a strong barrier against water or alcohol. If you use it on countertops or a kitchen table, you will need to touch it up every once in a while. (I have it on our kitchen countertops and love it.) Simply add a little more Soft Wax to a deteriorated finish and the repair is done – no stripping or additional chemicals needed.
Soft Wax 2.0 is not intended to be used over a film finish (such as lacquer, shellac or varnish). It is best used on bare wood. However, you can apply it over a porous finish, such as milk paint.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS (VERY IMPORTANT): Applying Soft Wax 2.0 is easy if you follow the simple instructions. On bare wood, apply a thin coat of soft wax using a rag, applicator pad, 3M gray pad or steel wool. Allow the finish to soak in about 15 minutes. Then, with a clean rag or towel, wipe the entire surface until it feels dry. Do not leave any excess finish on the surface. If you do leave some behind, the wood will get gummy and sticky.
The finish will be dry enough to use in a couple hours. After a couple weeks, the oil will be fully cured. After that, you can add a second coat (or not). A second coat will add more sheen and a little more protection to the wood.
Soft Wax 2.0 is made in small batches in Covington, Kentucky. Each glass jar contains 8 oz. of soft wax, enough for about five chairs.
Welcome Billy!
Would this be 00 or 0000 steel wool?
Doesn’t matter. Don’t over think it. I prefer lint free rough rag (bar towel) for the wax on; wax off with a comparatively soft lint free cloth. No guarantee of any martial art prowess after applying a whole tin.
I personally don’t like to use steel wool because it inevitably leaves sparkly bits that rust behind. Disclaimer, I’m not super wax expert dude, or affiliated with LAP in any way.
The most important instruction is apply a thin coat.
Thank you
Cool. How many cats are in the household. Most we’ve ever had is three at once. Right now one dog and two cats. Might be our last pets. They will likely pass away just as we retire and we want to do a lot of traveling. We’ve considered being a foster kitten place for local SPCA but worry that could lead to even more cats in the household. Time will tell.
2 at Katherine’s, 3 at the shop. Get the kitten…and a catsitter.
Thanks. Out of curiosity, have you or Chris ever made any of those cat towers for the felines? If so, was fine joiner utilized? It’s crossed my mind.
Yea, kind of hard to imagine not having a pet at home. My mom takes her cat in the motor home when they go RVing. Cat isn’t that happy about it though.
I have not. I am not a Carpetworker.
I keep thinking I might… then I find a decent looking one for less than $150 and think, “well I can’t make it for that so…”