I’m a long-time fan of the Mississippi-made Delta 14” cast-iron band saw – and its better clones. But not everyone has the space for one of these saws. Or they don’t have the eggs to buy a used one that will surely need some restoration.
For the last couple months, I have been using/abusing the Rikon 10-305 band saw. Rikon stopped making it, but Highland Woodworking bought up all their extant stock and is selling them at $299. This is a bargain price for a saw that can do everything necessary for making stick chairs.
If you have been wanting a band saw, but are short on space or money, quickly go get one before they run out. Then come back here and read about why you are such a genius (and a good dancer).
First, for all the first-timers here, please know that I bought this saw at full retail. I paid shipping and tax. Highland didn’t ask me to do a review. They might not even know I bought one of the saws. The saw isn’t perfect (more on that later), but $299 (plus $73 shipping) is chump change for a machine like this.
Most important: The saw has the guts to do serious work. It handles 8/4 oak without a problem. Heck, you can get almost 5” under the guides, not that I would ever need that with chairmaking.
The guides are standard bearings – two on the sides and one thrust bearing. Standard stuff and easy to adjust. There are guides above and below the table (you have to ask when a saw is this cheap). The trunnions are aluminum, but that’s not a demerit in my book. I like that the saw is so lightweight. I can pick it up myself and move it wherever. It’s small enough to fit in a closet.
The dust port actually fricking connects to a regular shop vacuum, which is some miracle. The dust collection is much better than on my 14” Delta, but it’s not perfect (observe the dust on its components).
The downsides: The fence is skimpy (they make an upgraded one). But it locks down fine at the front and rear of the table and doesn’t move. The throat plate is way too gappy – a common problem with all band saws. I’ll make a new zero-clearance one, but for crying out loud I shouldn’t have to.
Vibration isn’t bad. But clamp the saw to the bench when you use it. It doesn’t jump around, but every little bit counts. The saw is remarkably quiet. I expect little machines to be like little dogs – very barky.
The wheels are skimpy, but they were balanced at the factory and run true.
I wish I had a saw like this when my workshop was on the back porch. It would have saved me hours of farting around with a jigsaw and circ saw to process lumber.
So, as I said, act now or regret it later.
— Christopher Schwarz
P.S. Rikon has replaced the 10-305 with an upgraded model, the 10-3061. I haven’t tried or seen one. And at $599, I’m unlikely to.
I own a Craftsman version of this saw. I always had it on my “replace this toy” list until I got new blades for it, from one of the reputable suppliers. Both the tooth size/type and construction of the new blades made this a whole new saw. I now cut straighter (or more curvy) lines through thicker tougher wood than before. A joy to use, and yes, light and small. Keeping the saw forever!
I’ve found that great blades on inexpensive tools is usually the best way for me. This holds true for power tools AND hand tools. (I swapped in a Hock blade on one of my unremarkable planes, OMG!!!)
Yes, the blade that comes free with a new bandsaw is nearly always a poor performer. A good blade from your local saw doctor will greatly improve the bandsaw’s performance.
I have taken the plunge and prchased this saw based on your recommendation. I added a few options and spare parts and still got away for less than $550 with tax and shipped. I am looking forward to making saw dust with this little guy.
I wonder how many retailers of the products you recommend know who sent the customers? Or is it some sort of happy cosmic mystery to them when they randomly sell out of the product? For instance, I bought the zero clearance bandsaw inserts you linked to on eBay. Gone later that day. I wonder if after a while of this phenomenon, the Chosen of Schwarz will become an urban legend to the rest of the internet while only we LAP/American Peasant subscribers know the truth.
They could definitely know that people click a link to their site and it came from here. Whether they are paying attention or not is a different story.
I’ve owned this saw for a few years, and I’m happy with it. I’ve resawn pine and cedar up to that 5” limit, and it performs admirably (but not always great).
Get a new blade for it, though.
I should have mentioned that. I have yet to find any motorized saw that has a good stock blade.
What blade are you using on this saw?
Yes, I chose to go with this saw about 3 years ago, when it had the 1/3hp motor. Typically, I’m doing curved that needs a 1/4” blade ( Starrett ); and it performs respectably. Only replacement I’ve done is for the bearings on the upper guide ( removed the lower ones ); and installed premium ones which made the Screaching go away.
My local menards still has this model for 336. So check your local stores too.
I agree with ClevelandBill, a top notch blade makes just about any mediocre cutting tool an above-average performer.
That’s a sweet price on the discontinued saw. I don’t recall it’s full retail price ($450’ish?), but the upgrade’s retail price gets you a 1/2hp motor (up from 1/3hp) and it looks like heavier castings in the wheels, and an extra 3/8″ height capacity (if that is an important feature for the user). Other nice upgrade features, too. I’d consider those worth of the price upcharge.
The outgoing model looks great for relatively lighter cutting demands (such as chair parts and general cabinetmaking), but if I had the cash and the need to push the limits of the saw regularly (such as a woodturner- blanks for bowls and vessels), personally I’d spring for the new model.
Sweet deal- the opportunity of choice, for the moment, to buy the right tool for the job at hand.
I recently picked up the newer rikon model 10-3061, when substantial BF promos, free shipping, and some credit from a prior refund put it less than a hundred over your net price above for the 305.
Early impressions are positive overall – essentially just a little less skimpy for the iterative model.
I do not like the “upgraded fence” at all though. It clamps via a plastic cam lever and while it does clamp securely, releasing it tends to stick then yank the entire thing off its track. The instructions for squaring the fence also ineffectively tell you to adjust nylon tension screws when the only thing that sorted alignment was loosening the 2 bolts attaching the fence to the carrier. The square sliding fence was a major appeal vs a floating one that must be squared on every move but, as configured, I would probably be happier with the cheaper version.
It’s still make worlds of difference vs stock prep by hand though. I too cannot echo enough the advice to grab a 3-4 tooth blade.
Have same saw but reason had more to do with a little more power. But have to agree on fence, may try the bolts to get better alignment. Kind of stopped using it for rips due to lackluster results.
I bought the upgraded model from Lee Valley up here in Canada and even at a much higher price point, I’ve been very happy with its performance. The fence is still kinda janky but serviceable and the rest of the saw is solid and works great. I don’t have the space, electrical or budget for a 14” BS so I’m happy that my compromise meets the CS stamp of approval!
From the photos in your post, Chris, I would say it is almost exactly the same bandsaw as the Record Power BS250 that I bought some years ago for a very similar price. The only differences I can spot are the door locks, the on/off switch and that my fence has an extruded aluminium addition that can be flipped to create a low-profile fence for low and narrow cuts.
In any case, and of course with new blade (in my case from Tuff Saws in Wales) I have been perfectly satisfied.
There are obvious limits to what it can do – 10″ throat depth and 5″ resaw capacity for starters – but for what it costs, I agree that it is surprisingly good. I have ripped 8/4 hard maple on it, and resawn maple and other hardwoods up to that 5″ limit, with more than acceptable results. Sure, at a very leisurely feed rate, and never keeping its nose to that sort of grindstone for hours on end, but still.
I don’t know if Record Power arre sold on your side of the pond, but over here they are readily available both in the UK and on the European Continent.
In any case, these are, I think, all made in the same factory/factories in China, painted and branded to suit a brand livery (Rikon blue, Record Power green, etc. and so forth) and thus, I suspect, also available with yet other brand names on them.
Metabo sells a similar one as well. I’ve had the last model for 6 years, it is quite adequate for woodworking in a small kitchen.
By the way, Chris, are you sure that the table is also aluminium?
The trunnions, sure, but your table looks exactly like the one I have on the Record Power machine, and that is cast iron (I just checked with a magnet to be sure I wasn’t fooling myself).
Cheers,
Mattias
The copy on Highland’s site says the table is cast iron
I’m wrong. Will correct
The table of my 10-305 is definitely cast iron.
Presumably they’ll stop carrying it and switch to the new one (or not) when the stock is out, but my local Menards has the 10-305 in stock. Just an FYI for those in the Midwest.
And if you aren’t in a hurry wait and are willing to roll the dice that they might go out of stock, wait for one of their 11% off everything in the store sales.
Its 12% off until Christmas right now!
Interesting; I don’t see that on their website. And this applies to the bandsaw?
I was quite hesitant when I started reading this as I don’t need to spend any more money this year. However, when I read, “I wish I had this when I was working on my back porch” I literally looked up at my knock-down Nicholson bench sitting on my back porch and thought, “that’s a solid arguement”. I really don’t have room for a table saw, but this will be everything I’ll need for all of the work I’ll do for the next couple years.
Well I have acted but I also have two failed attempts (one in ’70’s and one in ’80’s) at taking a woodworking class at my local community college to learn how to safely use power tools (major reason I’m a handtoolie). Any recommendations for a basic how-to using a bandsaw, either text with pictures or concise YouTube?
I like Mark Duginski’s “The Band Saw Handbook,” which is widely available used. Alex Snodgrass’ videos are also very helpful.
Ordered Thriftbooks’ only copy, thank you!
Thank you Chris for the Rikon 10″ saw info, I was wondering what blades have you found to be of good quality in the 1/4″ and less sizes. I have the 14″ professional floor model and love it, but I hate changing blades from 3/4″ to smaller blades.
I use the 1/4″ from Highland Woodworking.
Thanks Chris. I’ve wanted another saw to my current one so that I could set it up with a 1/4″ blade specifically for curved cuts never beyond 2″ thick (think bandsaw reindeer for max thickness and most extreme curves I would need). Had wondered if these 10″ bandsaws would be enough. Sounds like this could be a winner.
I used the small Rikon band saw on the Wood Turning Cruise when I took the knife making class. I found it to be very handy for the work we were doing.
Bought one of these at Menards a couple years ago when my building switched from furniture to lutherie. I wanted something smaller since I primarily build Ukuleles and works perfectly.
I once threw a resaw blade on it and resawed 4.5″ of mahogany for some Uke sides, it worked just fine with the stock fence.
Thank you Chris for the heads up on this saw. I clicked on the link and ordered one about 20 minutes ago. I have downsized to a small shop due to losing my home and shop/equipment in a major flood a few years ago and this saw is what I needed.
I have one of these saws, picked it up at my local Sears before they went out of business for the same price. It’s a good little machine for the price, but the improvements Rikon made on the 10-3061 are awfully tempting. A better fence, tool-free blade guide adjustment, quick release blade tensioning, and a bigger two speed motor so you can cut metals occasionally. If I didn’t already have mine, I’d save for the upgraded one.
The motor is not two speed, you have to change belt location on pulleys.
I have the upgraded version of this saw. I like it a lot and when it’s working well, it works very well.
How much life are you getting out of a blade? I have found that my blades seem to blow up while they are still sharp. I assume that the metal is fatiguing faster due to the smaller tire, but perhaps I need to reassess my setup/tension.
I’ve had one of these for a few years now and I’ve only ever blown one blade. I’d been using whatever Lee Valley had available (mostly the Olson blades, which are HSS I think) and found that they dulled really quickly though. I just switched to a SuperCut with carbide teeth but haven’t had it on there long enough to assess the difference in longevity.
I see Lee Valley now sells the Wood Slicer blades in this size so I’m looking to give those a try too.
I have had this saw for almost ten years. I mostly use it to convert green hardwood to spoon blanks. Several times I have made around 100 spoon blanks in a single session, creating bushels and bushels of waste pieces. It is more than adequate for this job. Everything you say about the saw is correct. Another commenter wondered whether the staff at Highland knows when a good review by Schwarz (or Sellers) is sending customers their way. I’m the father of an employee there, and can tell you, the answer is yes.
Looks like they are sold out. Snooze you loose 😆
I bought this, thinking it would be better and safer for delicate work (scroll saw boxes and intarsia) than my larger scarier bandsaw. Unfortunately, I’m learning (corroborated by Rikon) that it’s not good with narrow blades. It’s very hard to center them on the wheel. Be forwarned.