The following is excerpted from the third edition of “Make a Chair from a Tree” – a book Jennie Alexander somewhat reluctantly agreed to in 2014. In 1978, her seminal book on green woodworking launched the careers of thousands of woodworkers and helped ignite a green woodworking movement in this country. Her reluctance to a third edition wasn’t due to a lack of passion for the book’s subject – the simple but gorgeous object that we now call a Jennie Chair had been an obsession of hers for decades. She simply didn’t know if she was physically and mentally up to the task of essentially starting from scratch on a new book – she had learned so much since the first two editions were published that this is an almost entirely new book. Thus, “Make a Chair From a Tree: Third Edition” is the culmination of a lifetime’s work on post-and-rung chairs, covering in detail every step of the green-wood chairmaking process – from splitting and riving parts to making graceful cuts with a drawknife and spokeshave, to brace-and-bit boring for the solid joinery, to hickory-bark seat weaving.
With the help of Larry Barrett, one of her devoted students, she worked on this new version of the book until just weeks before her 2018 death. Larry polished Jennie’s final manuscript, then built a chair in Jennie’s shop using her techniques and tools as we took many of the photographs for this book. Nathaniel Krause (another of Jennie’s devoted students), wove the hickory seat for this book. Longtime friend and collaborator Peter Follansbee helped to edit the text into the intensely technical (but easy to understand) and personal (but not maudlin) words that ended up in this third edition.
We know Jennie would be delighted by the contributions from the people she taught and who, in turn, inspired her. (Though we also suspect she’d say we should just start rewriting the book at the beginning…. again.)
There is no kiln in the first edition of “Make a Chair from a Tree.” Notes indicate JA was striving to get the rungs drier at assembly than they would be in the life of the chair, what we later came to call “super-dry.” JA made notes on different techniques chairmakers she met used, including one who dried rungs on the tin roof in the summertime. One of the first kilns JA used was the wood-fired kiln probably developed by Drew Langsner, used in various configurations by Langsner, Alexander and Dave Sawyer in the early years of Country Workshops.
After using it in the first class in 1979 Alexander briefly described it in a letter to friends:
“We made a kiln from cinder blocks and roof tin and chicken wire. After burning up some test rungs (JA certified perfectos) we installed the clay floor and cut back the heat. Fired by scraps & tended every hour (day & night) it worked very well. Very little checking on the rungs.”
I was a student in JA’s second chairmaking class there (1980). The kiln figures in one of my stellar moments in that class. It was the “tended every hour (day & night)” part that got me. We set up a nighttime schedule for the tent-camping crowd of scruffy would-be chairmakers. An alarm clock was given to the first student who would go tend the fire in the night. Then this person would reset the clock to sound off in another hour and tuck it into the tent of the next person on the rotation. Brilliant me, I decided that I’d take one of the earlier shifts, then be able to get back to sleep for some uninterrupted rest until morning. Except I slept through the alarm. I remember waking up way after my allotted slot, huffing & puffing to get the fire up again, and then turning the clock over to the next person. Several students got a full night’s sleep when they weren’t expecting it.
Chairmaker’s kilns have come a long way since. Most are over my head, and because I only make a couple of chairs at a time, beyond my needs. The one I use is based on the kiln Alexander featured in the afterword to the 1994 edition of MACFAT. I forget who came up with it; there’s reference to it (and other kilns) in Langsner’s “The Chairmaker’s Workshop.” I’ve dried chair rungs on the dashboard of my car in the summertime. I don’t have a tin roof.
– Peter Follansbee
Made a similar hot box from a large frozen steak shipping container. Hinged the lid and stood it on end. Lid opens like a refrigerator. 7 ½ watt bulb maintained 105 degrees to keek gallon jugs of epoxy resin and hardner warm for winter boat building.
Grab yer incandescent bulbs while you can!
I have dried small things in the microwave, which works well. Put it on defrost.
I have also set the piece being dried on fire doing this, keep a close eye on it and don’t answer the phone.
The bad news is that you can’t buy incandescent bulbs—though the environment wins
Incandescent bulbs may have gone the way of the dodo… (well, mostly. I’m sure there are still some out there)
BUT
Look up reptile tank heaters instead. Basically looks like a ceramic mushroom, still screws into a regular light bulb fixture.
also heat lamps, piano dehumidifier tubes, halogen bulbs, single cup drink heaters, old aquarium heaters (not sure how they would hold up without water),computer graphics … basically anything that puts out low level heat. heck you could use LED bulbs, just need a few more of them.
There are also thin, flat panel-type reptile heaters. These are great since they take up virtually no room, and can go under the bottom shelf/rack of the kiln. There’s a nice video on YouTube documenting the construction of a furo – a Japanese urushi lacquer curing cabinet – that uses these. You can also get ones with digital thermostats, either included, or as a separate unit that can also act as a humidistat (vital for urushi, not so much for a kiln). Search for “reptile heater” or “terrarium heating pad”.
It’s been over 110 degrees nearly every day for the past six weeks, where I live in the Southwest. Suspect I can simply leave parts in a car, out in the open during the summer, and they’ll get ‘super dry’, but quick.
Just rules out drying wood in November—May…
I was wondering if anyone ever had a problem with fire. I built a small kiln from insulation, I forget what wattage bulb I had in there, but the socket’ cord set was from a regular foil.
I left it overnight in the shop, and woke up to frantic calls that a fire had started and was pretty serious and terrifying.
I really liked this book. I found the MACFAT video to be a great companion to the book. It was only while taking a chair class that I had an opportunity to read an earlier MACFAT edition. The LAP 3rd edition is much easier (for me) to make the chair from.
Many thanks to the LAP team, Larry, Peter, and others for making MACFAT3 a reality.