We have a new video available for sale today: “Build Your Tool Chest Interior.” In this video, I show you how I make and install the interior structures of a full-size English tool chest (in this case, an “Anarchist’s Tool Chest“) with three sliding tills and their runners, a combination hanging tool rack/backsaw rack, a floor till for full-size hand saws, and a moulding plane till.
Customers – both domestic and international – can purchase it here.
I’ve built dozens of these chests for customers, and have in some ways have refined the techniques for making the tills, tool rack and saw till, so they’re somewhat different than what is covered in the book, “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” (the beginning of the book – “Disobey me” – gave me license…and I think my approach makes the interior just a little easier to build and fit into the chest). Plus, with the exception of the thin till runners, everything is easily reversible (in case you need to seriously rearrange your tools, or the chest gets drafted for holding blankets).
You’ll also learn how to install the hardware: ring pulls for the tills, chest handles, hinges and a “crab lock.” You’ll also see how I installs casters (very carefully!), and a few options for keeping the lid open. Oh – and to finish (or not), and why (or why not).
The video ($24) is nearly two hours long and can be streamed (after logging into your Lost Art Press account), or you can download the video and put it on any device. The video is sans DRM (digital rights management), so the files can easily be moved to any of your devices (now and in the future).
You’ll also get a PDF with construction notes, and sources for the hardware, tools and finishes I show and discuss.
– Fitz
Great addition to your other tool chest builds.
Excellent. I will be purchasing and downloading a bit later today. As mentioned above, I’m sure this will be a great addition to the series. I’d be remiss by not stating that I’m looking forward to the DTC book as well.
However, there seems to be one fly in the ointment, at least for me. And, I may be repost this on Saturday’s open forum….. Where to find material for both the ATC and/or DTC? Linden, let alone sugar or eastern white pine, seems to be unicorns in Central Florida. The closest I could have been to it would have been the class in Tampa last October.
Sure would be nice, if say an entity, like Amana, offered some pseudo kits of materials to build these projects. Naturally, I’d say an offering from LAP would be awesome. However, I can ascertain the crew has quite a number of chisels juggling in the air.
Furniture makers work in every state, so I promise that the wood you need is out there. A couple leads to consider:
Ask Kate at the Florida School of Woodwork where they get their stock. They are in Tampa.
Buy it online from Steve Wall Lumber. https://walllumber.com/
They send it via common carrier, so shipping is very reasonable. We have used them many times. great company. White pine is $2/bf. That’s cheaper than I can buy it at my commercial yard here (even with shipping).
There are other dealers who truck wood, but this is the one I have the most experience with.
I will agree with Wall Lumber they are really easy to work with and their prices are the same or better with far less effort. Probably 10 -12 orders over 8 years fyi
Thank you. I forgot to ask her (or Andrew) when I was there the week following the DTC class.
And thank you for “confirming” Steve Wall Lumber. I’ve been aware of them either via a LAP post, or Will Myers. Should have made that purchase awhile ago. Procrastination, just lovely.
No procrastination today. I off to order the ATC interior build video….
Excellent choice for a video! Actually really interested in the refinements as you time and experience has grown.
An excellent video: interesting, informative and entertaining (who needs Netflix anyway?), for which many thanks!
It also gave rise to a couple of questions in my mind:
* What kind and size of brad or nail would you prefer for pinning parts in place if you didn’t have that pneumatic pin/nail gun handy?
* What was your reason(s) for choosing that surface mounted lock, rather than a half-mortise lock? Just the (very cool!) look of the thing, or ease of installation, or both, or summat else again?
* I noticed you used (hard?) maple for the runners and till bottoms, rather than oak. Would that be your druthers for those parts, and of so why; or is it more something that varies depending on what you have to hand and/or the customer wants?
Cheers,
Mattias
Thanks!
4d finish nails or headless brads should be fine, if you use the same thickness of material (1/2″). Below is a chart – nail, nail length, thickness of material (the material through which the nail passes) that it fastens:
2d – 1 inch – 1/4 inch
3d – 1-1/4 inch –3/8 inch
4d – 1 -1/2 inch – 1/2 inch
5d – 1-3/4 inch – 5/8 inch
6d – 2 inch – 3/4 inch
7d – 2-1/4 inch – 7/8 inch
8d – 2-1/2 inch– 1 inch
The client chose the lock – but in general, a mortise lock tends to stick a lot of the year (Chris took his out). And yes, this is also easier to install.
Any hard-wearing hardwood would be fine for the runners and till bottoms. I typically use white oak and maple simply because I like them.
Thank you, Megan; that is most appreciated!
(And apologies for not saying so sooner.)
Cheers,
Mattias