I use colored waxes quite a lot in my finishing, especially the darker colors. I’m partial to Liberon’s Black Bison Paste Wax, but that’s because it is the only brand I’ve ever used.
Colored waxes are a secret weapon when it comes to muting a particularly loud or brash color. They also add a depth to many finishes by adding a second hue to the overall piece.
Many antique restorers use black wax to add age to a finish or a repair, and it’s great for that. But that’s not my goal with black wax. I hope the photos here will explain it better than words.
First, ignore the sales copy about the stuff.
“(I)t feeds, polishes and helps to prevent wood drying out…” No, it doesn’t.
“Giving a highly lustrous and hardwearing finish…” It actually gives a low-luster finish. And, like all waxes, isn’t particularly durable.
“Well-known for its quality and pleasant, distinctive aroma…” Uhhh, this stuff smells like a 1950s cleaning solution for septic tanks. It is not pleasant. But the smell dissipates.
Here’s what it really does. It’s a fast-drying sludge. Pick a color. I use “Dark Oak” and “Tudor Oak” and cannot tell the difference. When you use it on raw wood, such as oak, it will darken the oak and collect in the wood’s open pores. When used on raw closed-pore woods, such as pine, it generally looks like a smeary mess (a test board will confirm this).
I typically use it on top of a finish, either shellac or paint. When used over shellac, it will reduce the brashness of the new shellac, and the wax will collect in the pores of the wood, giving the piece a bit of dimension.
I adore the combination of mahogany, shellac and black wax. That’s what I use on virtually all of my campaign pieces.
When used over paint, the black wax gets a little smeary. It will collect in small voids left in the paint. And it will buff off unevenly on the paint. This is a good thing. A bright new paint finish can look like you dipped your furniture in Plasti-Dip. The uneven absorption of the wax mutes the single color.
Application
The stuff dries quickly, so I recommend you work small areas, about 12″ x 12″. Wipe the wax on generously with a rag so you can push it into the pores and small voids (wear protective gloves). Keep wiping the wax until you have a thin, consistent coat. Then immediately begin wiping it off with a clean, coarse rag (I use towels with a Huck weave – basically surgical towels). Keep wiping until you cannot remove any more. Then move on to the next section of the project.
If you botch a section, simply apply more wax. The wax’s solvent will dissolve the hard layer and you can wipe again. Or dab some mineral spirits on a rag and you can rub the surface to remove thin layers of wax until you get the effect you want.
If at any time you hate the finish, flood the surface with mineral spirits and rub hard. Most of the wax will come off.
Test Boards
Making test boards is the only way to ensure you will get the effect you want. I’ve used the wax for decades and still do a test board before I start smearing the stuff on anything.
A tin of this stuff lasts for many years, so don’t be put off by the high price (about $35-$40 here in the U.S.). Don’t be put off by the smell (we call it the “stinky janitor” wax because it smells like some cleaning fluid from my childhood). And don’t be put off by the bison part. I think there’s hardly any bison in the wax.
– Christopher Schwarz
I like the little Shaker-esque cabinet in the first photo………..is that an original design or did you pilfer it from someone?
best always…….dale
It is an adaptation of a vernacular piece from the High Carpathians. One of the projects from my next book, “The American Peasant.”
I love the look. Nice and clean.
Wow, the difference on the chair is really quite significant. Looks good.
Go with Original Antique flavor
Best wax out there.
FWIW I’ve thinned out my own waxes (usually beeswax) with different oils (usually linseed) and found that if you add (about a teaspoon for around 75-100g of wax) a reasonably concentrated woodstain (e.g. Varathane Ultra, which I find is quite opaque vs. their other lines) you can get an OK colored wax. Obviously buying is the way to go if you want consistency with a specific color, but for trying stuff out if you’ve got stuff on hand it can get you a good bit of variety. I’ve been doing up little pucks of about 50g wax + 25-50g oil to try and find a good workable consistency for my stuff.
I have used the Liberon and the Briwax colored waxes with equal success. However at some point along the way I can no longer handle the fumes of either one. It gives me a headache and makes me feel nauseous and makes my eyes burn for a day or two. Some kind of allergic reaction?. I ended up getting rid of them all until I can find a non toxic substitute or can find some other type of respirator that works.
I’ve used pigments from earthpigments.com with success in making my own colored wax. You’re probably reacting to the solvent, so mix up beeswax, an oil of choice (BLO could be a good start) and some pigment and melt it in a double boiler and you’ll be left with something that will probably be harder to apply but easier on your mucosa.
If you are interested in DYI pigments, check out https://shop.kremerpigments.com/us/. in particular “iron oxide pigments” are all variations on rust, and most if not all of the “Earth pigments” are variations on clay. If you want blue it’s a in another category (sorry Megan!). You know you are in the SCA (sca.org) when you can name the pigments in the traditional milk paint colors because you have seen them before… 100g is in the neighborhood of half a cup which is plenty unless you are painting a room.
For an alternate solvent consider the citrus solvent Katie uses in her wax (recipe on blog a year or two ago)? scrape a lemon on the peel and sniff it for a preview of the scent.
I wonder if this is the sort of wax used by Gustav Stickley over fumed oak?
Lampblack mixed with Katherine’s wax might be similar.
How does it age? Especially on chairs, but does it get removed on high wear areas, and reveal the brighter paint underneath?
Hi John,
The color stays put, even on seating. If there’s any wear that affects the color, it also affects the finish below. So every wears evening and gently. Like it should. I have a Morris chair from the 1990s I made that is wearing beautifully with this stuff as the topcoat.
I love that stuff I spread that shit on everything, oh oh that smell. I make my own Chalk paint and use the Black wax on things as the last finish before it goes out the door.
Thanks! I like what it does to paint.
What is scribed into the back of the door on the cabinet?
Or should I say dry sink?
Allbäck Linseed Oil Wax is another good option. They have several color options. No solvents for those who want to avoid the fumes/smells. I have mixed my own colored waxes in the past, and have found it to be just easier to buy a premade product. This is not a direct replacement for Bison Wax, as it has linseed oil, and does not include a “blend” of waxes, just beeswax. Similar results can be achieved but definitely use test boards. I have found on raw wood, it dries enough in a couple days for use, but on painted or finished wood, it can take a few more days.
Chris – I know you have used (and recommended) Allbäck products in the past, have you tried their pigmented wax?
Somewhere I read you can just add a little paint to regular soft wax and viola, tinted wax. Only caveat is it eventually dries up. Consistency issues between batches notwithstanding, seems pretty simple if you’re already using soft wax. Anyone tried this?
I’ve had good luck with the black wax from Real Milk Paint. I’ve used it over the top of Garnet Shellac on Walnut, Cherry, Alder with good results. Didn’t like the final look on Pecan.
Thanks Chris. About four or five years ago, I bought some dark colored Minwax for a walnut project. Been curious about the black Bison wax. Will purchase some and compare them side by side. I’ve got a mahogany project coming up and want the wax to be what fills the pores.
I use the Liberon Black Bison Wax for a final finish on my furniture as well as wood tool handles and parts. I’ve used Regency Micro-Crystalline Wax, sold by furniture restorer Eli Rios, that is tinted with asphaltum (tar) for a top coat and also burnished onto edges, etc., between coats of milk pain on my distressed 18th/19th century period pieces.
Can I put this over Katherines Soft Wax (my chair could use a shade less green paint punch)?
Yup
👍 gonna try this!! Thanks…good article!
I make with cherry and finish with shellac and Renaissance Wax, a clear wax. What experience do you have with the darker colored waxes over shellac on cherry? Looking for greater depth and color.
I have tried black wax over shellac on cherry and it never makes me happy. Try a test board. It might just be me
Surely Katie is adding this to her line soon!
I love the smell of Black Bison, but I’ve been told I’m not normal anyway.
Nothing beats it over antique walnut pieces, especially french polished.
Us poor boys will use Kiwi shoe wax in the can in a pinch. I can hear the judgement now.
Thanks for the help! Great info!
Hi Chris, I really like this idea to add depth to the final appearance. After you apply the Black Bison Wax, do you apply Katherine’s soft wax, something else, or leave as is? Thanks!
I’m saddened to be learning these techniques just as I learn that General Finishes is discontinuing several Milk Paint colors. What are the other options for Milk Paint?