During the last 25 years, all my sharpening processes have become simpler. And use much less gear. This has made me faster, and my edges are just as excellent.
This evolution is most evident in the way I sharpen scrapers. I was taught the first step was to file the edge at a perfect 90°. Then stone away the scratches. This is completely unnecessary (unless you tried to scrape concrete with your tool). Instead, you can simply use a burnisher to turn the hook vertical and stone it away.
The second huge change also involves the burnisher. I was taught to polish both faces of the scraper to create a durable tool. This is also totally unnecessary. You can use your burnish to polish the face – right up where it needs to be polished.
Both of these tips are shown in this quick video.
My new video “Sharpen This (the Video)” is filled with small tips and tricks such as these that (I hope) will get you back to work a little faster.
— Christopher Schwarz
Is it true that scrapers don’t perform well on softwoods, or not as well when compared to hardwoods?
I read that once and it seemed to explain why I was having trouble, despite sharpening correctly. When I used my same Crucible scraper on some hardwood the curls appeared right away.
A sharp scraper can cut soft softwoods, such as white pine. I use a light touch.
Scrapers adore hard woods. The harder the wood, the better it responds to scraping. Soft woods love a low cutting angle.
But sharp fixes everything.
Thanks! Had never considered a low cutting angle.
How much pressure do you apply on the burnisher when turning the hook? Light or heavy, both seem to work….Is that the answer, it doesn’t really matter?
I’ve always struggled to answer this question.
I use about the same amount of pressure when using tweezers to grab a splinter. Firm. But not white-knuckle pressure.
Took me a long time and much too much work and money to learn what Chris said.
0h my god. Ditch the file? I think I love you ( always hate that part of it ).