By request, here is a short movie showing the process of making the long sticks. This is almost identical to the technique shown in “The Stick Chair Book.” The only difference is a change to the sequence of cuts in Stage 1.
Using planes to make chair sticks is not my invention – not by a longshot. I first learned to do it this way in “Welsh Stick Chairs” by John Brown. The only difference is I’m doing it on a low workbench. JB put a stop in his machinist vise for this operation.
I never thought this process was weird (what was really odd to me was doing it with the Ashem Crafts trapping and rotary planes). The goal with this handplane technique is to use bench tools and not have to purchase a drawknife, spokeshave and shavehorse. If you have these tools, ignore me.
— Christopher Schwarz
To me, your way is better if you have kiln dried wood and a table saw. A drawknife, spokeshave and shaving horse for green wood. Maybe to state the obvious.
Agreed. I’m currently making both a stick chair (the low-back Gibson-esque from the new book) and Curtis Buchanan’s Democratic Chair. For the stick chair, I’m using dried wood with machines to mill everything down to octagons, then hand tools from that point. For the democratic chair, I’m using green wood and drawknife. It’s an interesting comparison.
Very Good
I think a good chore coat definitely begs for a proper hat like that…for when LAP decides to expand their clothing line!
“think round.” – J.B. from Chris Williams’ book. Annoyingly simple yet so true just like a saying I picked up from a friend and colleague of mine — Thomas kluge the principal violist of the Omaha symphony: “when we practice, we get better.”
Why don’t you ever wear your chore coat in your videos?
Chris you’re awesome! Where else can someone request a video to clear up some written instruction and BOOM, the next day it appears and totally clarifies the text! Thanks!
Good technique, simple and efficient. Your previous post was excellent in showing and explaining the three steps, the video is a nice bonus. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Just when I’ve got my shave horse built and started to learn some draw-knife chops you show me this! I guess I will have to try this method too. You did some cleanup with the block plane. What about using a curved scraper or even (gasp!) sandpaper?
Sure. I scrape and sand when necessary.
You make it look easy. Can you give me some idea how big your learning curve was? Or, how much firewood can I expect to make before getting serviceable pieces? Thanks.
If you are comfortable with a handplane, you will pick this up quickly. The usual problem is not that you make firewood – just that it takes a lot of time to get things right. I now make a long stick in less than five minutes. But when I started, it would take me 20 minutes to get it right.
A person might think they look cool but they do not look cooler than John Brown making sticks.
Hi Chris can you mention a word about the significance of the steps (shoulders) in the wooden planing stop. 1/2″ for the top step and maybe 1/2″ for additional steps…. reason? I can see the reason for the size of the top step but am confused when it comes to the lower steps. Wouldn’t your plan run into the top shoulder if you placed (for example) a chair leg in either of the lower shoulders? As always… thank you for making everything clear and easier.
Hi Chris. I am in Saskatchewan, where kiln dried hardwood is basically all I can find. I was wondering how long you typically allow your chair stock acclimate prior to turning it into parts?
If it’s at equilibrium moisture content with my shop, I will go to work the same day I buy it. If not, I cut it to rough lengths and give it a few days to acclimatize.