Katherine heads back to college on Monday, and could use a little pocket money – so she made another big batch of Soft Wax 2.0. It is now up for sale in her etsy.com store. Today’s jars are brought to you by Wally – the second-most friendly of the cats. Bean is downstairs to greet me almost every morning; Wally pops down most days for his elevenses – he knows I keep treats in my top chest till.
I use Katherine’s soft wax on many of my projects, including the tills in the chest on which I’m currently working. Katherine cooks it up here in the machine room using a waterless process. She then packages it in a tough glass jar with a metal screw-top lid. She applies her hand-designed label to each lid, boxes up the jars and ships them in a durable cardboard mailer.
Instructions for Soft Wax 2.0
Soft Wax 2.0 is a safe finish for bare wood that is incredibly easy to apply and imparts a beautiful low luster to the wood.
The finish is made by cooking raw, organic linseed oil (from the flax plant) and combining it with cosmetics-grade beeswax and a small amount of a citrus-based solvent. The result is that this finish can be applied without special safety equipment, such as a respirator. The only safety caution is to dry the rags out flat you used to apply before throwing them away. (All linseed oil generates heat as it cures, and there is a small but real chance of the rags catching fire if they are bunched up while wet.)
Soft Wax 2.0 is an ideal finish for pieces that will be touched a lot, such as chairs, turned objects and spoons. The finish does not build a film, so the wood feels like wood – not plastic. Because of this, the wax does not provide a strong barrier against water or alcohol. If you use it on countertops or a kitchen table, you will need to touch it up every once in a while. Simply add a little more Soft Wax to a deteriorated finish and the repair is done – no stripping or additional chemicals needed.
Soft Wax 2.0 is not intended to be used over a film finish (such as lacquer, shellac or varnish). It is best used on bare wood. However, you can apply it over a porous finish, such as milk paint.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS (VERY IMPORTANT): Applying Soft Wax 2.0 is so easy if you follow the simple instructions. On bare wood, apply a thin coat of soft wax using a rag, applicator pad, 3M gray pad or steel wool. Allow the finish to soak in about 15 minutes. Then, with a clean rag or towel, wipe the entire surface until it feels dry. Do not leave any excess finish on the surface. If you do leave some behind, the wood will get gummy and sticky.
The finish will be dry enough to use in a couple hours. After a couple weeks, the oil will be fully cured. After that, you can add a second coat (or not). A second coat will add more sheen and a little more protection to the wood.
Soft Wax 2.0 is made in small batches in Kentucky using a waterless process. Each glass jar contains 8 oz. of soft wax, enough for at least two chairs (or 30+ ATC tills).
So the secret ingredient is Ear Wax?
So I hear.
Love the Hobbit reference. You seem to have them on your mind.
And go Katherine! Nice little business.
I was going for “Winnie-the-Pooh” – but I’ll take “The Hobbit” 😉
Didn’t even think of Pooh bear. But I see it now. I figured with the shop having Hobbit chairs being built it lately you were continuing the theme. Plus I just read the book recently. So it was in my mind too.
I’m 70+ pounds of elevenses. Of course am and pm
Can it be used over a piece that has been previously finished with danish oil?
Why is the mention of it being a waterless process important?
It’s important because there is no moisture in the mixture, so it will keep for a long time in the jar without corroding the metal lid (the lid is coated to resist corrosion as well). When Katherine first began making the wax, she used a metal tin. And when a little water got into the mixture, the tin would rust.
Thank you.
Chris, I cannot remember from previous instructions and did not find mention in the current version, but can this be used on wood that will be in contact with books, etc.? I would like to finish the Japanese toolbox that I built under your tutelage in Tampa. My intent is to then use the toolbox for keepsakes and special books, etc.. Thanks! BabyBox
Chris, I did find mention in the instructions, and I cannot remember the guidelines from version 1.0….Can this be used on wood that come in contact with books, etc.? I wish to apply it to the Japanese toolbox I built, under your tutelage, in Tampa. I intend on storing keepsakes, special books, etc., in it. Or, just finis h the exterior…… Thanks! BabyBox
Once it fully cures (about two weeks) it is a fine finish for any box and its contents.
Chris, I didn’t have the raw linseed, so tried your recipe with hemp and dark tung from Real Milk Paint. Applied single coats to black cherry, red oak, dark white ash and light white ash scraps. Nice contrast between the recipes except on the light white ash. Both do a great job on the cherry. All the wood was cut, air dried and milled on my farm in Wisconsin. I don’t know why some of the ash is light and some is dark. Would appreciate comments. The beeswax is from hives on the farm. I plan to apply it to white oak and maple also. Thanks much for the recipe.
Can I put this over an oil based stain? Thanks!
Yes!