I don’t make many unequivocal statements, but here’s one: Some non-stringy species of white pine is the correct wood for a tool chest. And if you can get it, choose sugar pine or Eastern white pine. These are lightweight woods that are easy to work with hand tools, and they are typically less expensive in the U.S. than any hardwood, with the possible exception of poplar. And while poplar will work for a tool chest – as will any wood, really – it’s heavy and harder to dovetail than pine. And that will make your tool chest heavier than it needs to be.
Fully loaded, a sugar pine “Anarchist’s Tool Chest” weighs in the neighborhood of 200-225 lbs. (The hardware and choice of wood for tills and other interior bits will affect the weight, as, of course, will the specific tools inside.)
And while I’ve never weighed a pine Dutch tool chest fully loaded, I used to work out of a poplar one while teaching on the road, and I had a heck of a time lifting it in and out of my car. So I’m keeping one of the pine ones I’m building right now to make my peripatetic woodworking life just a little easier.
For the tool chest classes I teach here, I do my best to source beautiful, clear sugar pine, which is typically available in wide widths – the fewer pieces in panel glue-ups, the better. But every once in a while, someone will ask if they can prep their own wood for a class – and it’s usually for the anarchist’s tool chest class – the one for which the wood prep is the most demanding and most critical that it be good. I say sure…but you darn well better do a good job of it. A) I won’t have time during the class to fix any out-of-square edges for you and B) I won’t have on hand matching stock to replace a piece should something go terribly wrong. C) I don’t want to help lift your full-size oak or purpleheart tool chest into your car at the end of class.
But if you insist on bringing your own, below are the steps to follow (some of which are pretty basic…but you never know what people already know).
The flatter the wood, the easier it is to prep – and the more plain the grain, generally the easier it is to dovetail. I don’t want any points of cathedrals or bird’s eyes in my pins and tails (or knots, or course). So the first thing I do is to lay out rough cuts to avoid anything problematic. I start with the largest pieces (above, that’s the front and back of the ATC), and try my best to have all my glue-ups be only two pieces (you can see above that I typically have to use three pieces in at least some of the carcase and lid panels).
So first, I mark out all the pieces, and if they’re longer than 14″ or so, I rough cut them about 1″ overlong at the chop saw and about 1/2″ overwide at the band saw (or I joint one edge then cut them overwide at the table saw). For pieces that are shorter than 14″ (and therefore can’t safely go through the planer), I keep them attached to another piece until after the surfacing is done. You don’t, however, want to leave the pieces much longer than they need to be. The longer a board, the more likely it is to be twisted – the less of that you have to take out, the better. Because the more you have to remove from one surface to correct twist or a cup, the more will go into your dust collector.
In order to run the wood through the planer to get it flat (and all of it to the same thickness), you need one flat face; that face registers on the bed of the planer. If you’re good with a jointer plane, you may not need a jointer. If you’re decent with a jointer plane but have to prep wood for seven people and have three days to do it, you definitely want an electric jointer.
If you have a helical head on your jointer, you don’t have to worry much about grain direction, but run the stock in the correct direction anyway; it’s a good habit to adopt. The grain should be running downhill. And if there’s a crown in the board on one face, there’s probably a cup on the other. When you run the wood across the cutters, you want it supported as much as possible at the outside edges, so the cupped face should face down. If you’ve already arranged it with the grain running correctly but the cupped face up, simply flip the board end for end, before jointing it. (Odds are pretty good that the heart side will be facing up.)
With thick wood, you can get away with jointing it only enough to create flats at the outside edges to register on the planer bed. But the planer rollers will flatten thin wood…which will spring back after it exits the planer. So for 3/4″ (or thinner) stock, I always run the stock as many times as necessary across the jointer to flatten one face completely. And because I think it’s unsafe to have to push too hard, I’d rather make several light cuts than one deep cut; I usually have the cut set to no more than 1/16″
After the final jointer pass, I stack the boards atop the planer, flat face down, with the last end that went over the jointer facing toward the planer mouth – that’s the way they get fed in (last off jointer, first in planer). Though again, if you have a helical cutter, it’s not (usually) that critical.
I follow the same steps every time I use the planer; that way, I never get turned around. As I pull pieces off the far end, I stack them back in the exact same orientation as they were run through the machine. Then if I have to run them again to get to a certain thickness and the first face is flat, I flip them end for end as I feed them into the planer for the second pass. And repeat. That way, I’m removing wood from both faces, and hopefully equalizing the moisture exchange. (And if I have someone catching for me, I make sure they don’t flip the boards as they stack them.) Same steps for the operator every time. And if the first face isn’t flat after one pass, the board is in the right direction without flipping it to simply run it through again.
And here’s the critical part for classes when it comes to thicknessing: I run all the wood that has to be the same thickness at the same time. I would never run, say, the front and back of a through-dovetailed carcase then come back three days later and run the ends. In order to avoid problems, all the pieces must be the exact same thickness – your best shot at achieving that is to do it all at once. I don’t care if the pieces are a hair over or under 7/8″ – I just care that they’re all the same.
Once all the stock is flat and to thickness, I joint one edge in preparation for cutting it to final size (even if I’ve already jointed an edge to cut a piece to rough width, I do it again, in case it got bashed up), and mark the jointed edge; that edge will run against the table saw’s fence.
But it’s the table saw work that scares me the most in folks prepping their own stock; if the pieces aren’t square, the person’s class experience is doomed – and I don’t want that. But if I have to take the time to correct problems, the other students in the class suffer. So at least one person (in addition to me) is going to be unhappy.
So I am ultra careful at the table saw to make sure my cuts are square. First, I rip the pieces to final width, making sure I keep the wood tight to the fence. Then I triple check that the crosscut fence is dead square to the blade, and before we got a reliable slider, I clamped like pieces together to make sure they were the exact same length. (Now I trust the stop on our slider. But I don’t trust the stop on your slider.)
So after setting my stop I raise it, then crosscut one end square (with the jointed-edge mark against the fence), then drop the stop, flip the board and cut it to length. Boom – two square ends, and the right length. Repeat.
Once all the pieces of that length are cut, I reset the stop and cut the mating pieces. And so on with the rest of the stock.
Note that all of the above assumes no glue-ups. Throw wide panels into the mix and you add glue-ups to the prep. I’ll write about those in a few days.
Part of an upcoming chapter for the DTC? I like it.
There will be a chapter on stock selection and prep! But with better pictures…
Great share Chris. Your analysis and record of the thought process of preparing stock is both excellent and useful!
Meghan Fitzgerald wrote this one.
Thanks…and not to quibble (because I’ve been called far worse!) but it’s Megan Fitzpatrick.
Unfortunately, I cannot attend the course. But I applaud your work and the return of in-person woodworking classes. I’ll be following along to see how it goes. Thank you.
Quite frankly, the fact that you stock prep is one of my favorite things about taking classes. I don’t own a table saw, jointer or bandsaw, so it’s probably one of the most difficult parts of the whole process for me.
I’m a beginner so please forgive the newbie question. Why are equal thicknesses required? Does it have something to do with the dovetails?
Stock prep is so important I would think it deserve a it’s own prerequisite course?
We do the stock prep for classes; we haven’t the space in the machine shop to teach that one, I’m afraid. But yes, it’s a bedrock skill. (I figure, though, that if a new woodworker builds a chest – or whatever – out of nice wood, they’ll be inspired to then learn stock prep for themselves! But it does take good lungs and muscles to do it by hand, and good machinery to do it powered – and not everyone has the room for the machines or the time/health for the other.)
Yes I can understand doing the possible.
Boards don’t have to be equal thicknesses to dovetail them – but if they’re not, it means you have to check the thickness on each one and cut a matching baseline on each mating end. And that adds time and the possibility for confusion. So if they’re all the same thickness, you set the cutting gauge once, then scribe everything at one time with that setting. So much faster and more efficient – which is necessary in a class of this type.
Thanks! I’m currently learning to prep stock for a frame and panel bench. I was curious if matching the thickness would matter at all.
Well it’ll make your life a lot easier! But for frame and panel, as long as you register off the same face (I’d choose the front face), your grooves will all end up in the same plane.
Thanks again! I should have mentioned I’m prepping the stock using a No. 5 and a wooden Jointer. Particularly with the jointer I’m still learning to set it. Oh and I’m doing this on a little 4ft long Roman low bench without any vices. I’ve been inspired a lot by Follansbee’s methods but I’m not working green wood. My back and arms probably wish I was.
Well if you’re doing it 17th c style, I wouldn’t bother four-squaring – only the inside faces need to be flat and 90° to one another. But if you’ve been following Follansbee, you already know that.
I stopped rabetting my tail boards after I forgot to change the marking gauge lines on the pin board to compensate. If everything is the same thickness I only need the one marking gauge. I just use a wooden strip and a couple of spring clamps to replace the rebate.
I also prefer the extruded rabbet — less dicey to teach/no sloped rabbets.
I have cut through dovetails in boards of varying thickness. I’ve found 2 solutions that both work. 1) as Fitz said, set your baseline to match each individual board. 2) set your baseline to match the thickest board. The former takes longer too mark out, especially if you are cutting a rabbet in the tail board. The latter takes longer in cleanup because you end up with proud tails or pins that you need to trim. My first choice when making boxes is equal thickness stock, second is #2. When making piston fit drawers #2 doesn’t work.
Excellent dissertation.
How do I find about the classes and attending one of them?
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/05/03/2021-classes-at-the-storefront/
Stock prep. writing books, writing blog posts, editing books, teaching classes, premodeling your home, petting the cats — I’m beginning to think you’re nuclear powered or even fusion-powered. (Remember, kids: a day without fusion is like a day without sunshine!) Thank you for all the work you and Chris do at LAP.
Where do you source the white pine that you use?
Thanks
We get it from a trade supplier, Shiels Lumber
I’m not exactly a pro, but I have been woodworking for a couple of years (including stock prep)… and yet I still get a ton of value from reading through a well-thought-out and well-written piece like this. Thank you!!
I beg to differ vis-a-vis poplar as a toolbox wood (although possibly uncommon). It is cheap ($2.10/bf), straight grained, knot free, available in boards up to at least 18″ wide, and easy to work. It is a medium hardness hardwood. No discernible difference to saw a dovetail in poplar as opposed to pine on the grand scheme of things. The weight of an empty poplar tool box is higher than that of an empty pine box, but on the other hand, how many empty tool boxes are there? I have an Anarchists tool chest (different dimensions), but with all of my tools in it, I need it to be on steel wheels to move it around, and a winch to draw it up in to my truck (if I had one!), so I do not see that as a measurable disadvantage.
That’s because you’re stronger than I, Bill! I move the Dutch chest a lot (when there’s no pandemic and I’m on the road teaching) — so I stand by the absolute necessity for less weight there. And as far as dovetails, I’ve found in classes that beginners have an easier time of pine. I do feel a difference in sawing the two, but the real difference is in assembly (what we call the mash factor).