I’ve cooked up about 10 batches of linseed oil and wax in an attempt to make my own finish, but nine of those batches were unusable. Several batches were almost rock hard. Others were no different than thickened linseed oil.
One batch was perfect. But, of course, like an idiot I didn’t write down the procedure for that batch. I probably got distracted by a squirrel.
Until I get the recipe nailed down, I continue to use three commercial brands: Allbäck Linseed Oil Wax, Tried & True Original and Heritage BeesBlock. All three are free of harmful solvents.
The only difference among the products I have found is their viscosity (and their price). The Allbäck is like peanut butter and costs $61 per quart. Tried & True is like snot and costs $35 per quart. And BeesBlock is like a thinned linseed oil and costs $42 per quart. I suspect the difference is caused by how much wax is in the mix, but I can’t say for sure.
I love these finishes because they are easy to apply, easy to maintain and they pick up patina quickly. In other words, they don’t offer much protection from life. But that’s the approach I have come to prefer for most of the things I make (when I get to decide on the finish).
Application
Most people put these finishes on too thick. And they don’t remove enough when they wipe it down. Here’s how I apply them. I use a 3M woven grey pad to apply the finish. I like this pad because its slight abrasiveness helps smooth any rough spots, especially up around the spindles where it is hard to work with sandpaper or scrapers.
I put the project upside down on my bench and coat every surface I can easily reach rubbing the finish in. End grain will need extra finish because it will suck it up and leave the surface dry. After I coat all the surfaces of the piece that I can reach, I let it sit for 15 minutes.
Then I take a Huck towel (a surgical rag with no lint) and vigorously rub off any excess finish. I keep rubbing until the surface is dry.
Then I turn the piece over and finish the rest of the surfaces, let it sit for 15 minutes and then rub it with the Huck towel.
I look for dry spots, especially on the end grain, and add some more finish. When I’m satisfied, I let the piece sit overnight. Then I rub it vigorously with a clean Huck towel. The finish is done.
You can apply additional coats of finish if you like, or you can put the project in service. After about a year you might want to apply another coat. Or let nature take its course.
— Christopher Schwarz
Try using a heat gun to warm the wood before applying beeswax and the wood will suck up the wax deeper than just rubbing it on. Don’t get too hot though, just warm.
i do the same
A heat gun for embossing works really well for this. They don’t get as hot as a regular heat gun so it’s easier to warm things instead of turning them to ash.
Love it. I’d also be interested in the type of linseed oil you are using. Allback and TnT use pressed oil. Hardware store is chemically extracted. Good luck and keep us informed!
I’m now a big fan of linseed oil (boiled) in combination with mineral spirits and varnish having recently used it on my bench (thanks for publishing your recipe!). Incorporating wax into that particular mix obviously wouldn’t be wise for a bench but I can see a myriad of other furniture applications where it would be perfect. Looking forward to cooking myself up a batch of this new mix now I have a lifetime supply of the oil thanks to my home centre who only sells it by the bucket.
Splendide and thank you ! You did give us a recipe in the Anarhist’s book. You’re trying to improve upon it ? Finally: what finish can we use – eco-friendly amap – for a kitchen table or whatever furniture susceptible of bieng in contact with water – or better – with alcoholic beverages …?
I’ve come to really enjoy using Osmo, which I guess is kinda a compromise between synthetic and all natural. It has the same stain resistance as a poly, but the look and feel of a wax.
Walrus Oil Cabin Walls finish is also surprisingly durable, and they claim you can basically drink the stuff.
Chris: you gave a recipe in the Anarchist’s book. You don’t like it anymore ? Finaly, what finish would you use for a kitchen table or any other surface susceptible of being in contact with water – or better – with alcoholic beverages …? NAturally: as eco-friendly as possible or that will not transform my cockatiel in a ptérodactyle.
Chris: you gave a recipe in the Anarchist’s book. You don’t like it anymore ? Finaly, what finish would you use for a kitchen table or any other surface susceptible of being in contact with water – or better – with alcoholic beverages …? NAturally: as eco-friendly as possible or that will not transform my cockatiel in a ptérodactyle.
What would I use? One of the Linseed oil/wax formulas. It’s what we have on our kitchen table and kitchen countertops. You need to recoat every year, but that’s fine with me.
Most people aren’t like me and want less maintenance. Then you need a varnish. If you want an eco-friendly/health friendly finish then you need to look at the solvent that carries the varnish. There are products from Heritage that have oil, varnish and citrus solvent. You can try those. You can make your own with spar varnish thinned with low-odor or odorless mineral spirits (low VOC). Tried & True’s Varnish Oil is nice stuff.
You’re awesome! Thank for taking your time to answer!
You can clean your linseed/wax wood surfaces with linseed soap. Keeps it all in the linseed family.
https://www.earthandflax.com/linseed-oil-soap
I used an oil and wax paste that was recommended by you and was made in Canada. I liked it very much, but don’t recall the name. It was used on a variety of small finishing projects ranging from pine chests to chisel handles and plane totes.
The resulting finish was more “in the wood” rather than “on the wood”. It looked like the Allback photo above.
Since I’ve very modestly started woodworking the only finish I’ve ever applied is the one I cooked based on your recipe. Now I’m starting to wonder if I might have used an unusable finish since the beginning. But I think I’m fine. My hands are smooth and my wood the right kind of shiny. Thank you from Switzerland Chris.
Huck towels. I’m looking for a bargain. Chris, do you buy new or reclaimed? By the piece or by the pound? 16 x 24 dimensions are standard but quality can vary. What is your suggested source for best price? Thanks!!
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2020/11/22/2020-anarchists-gift-guide-day-5-huck-towels/
My passing knowledge of everything Chris as written is paying off.
I use a recipe that I found on David Fishers website that he uses for his food ware. Flaxseed oil and beeswax combined over a bath of hot water. https://davidffisher.com/resources/use-care-of-wooden-ware/
I have used it on carved spoons and bowls to great effect. Recently I used it on a pine top for an outside table. I used the shou sugi ban method and put the wax/paste on while it was still warm. It gobbled it right up and gave a nice sheen. It’ll get a good test here in Ireland to see how resistant it is to the harsh weather.
I use Viking linseed oil wax. I think it was about 35 bucks a quart, including shipping. But that was a couple of years ago. It uses raw linseed oil and beeswax. Its also the consistency of peanut butter.
I don’t use it on tops, mostly on drawer runners and other things that rub.
I’ve been using the Tried & True Original for at least 20 years, and love it – as long as it suits the purpose. It’s a wonderfully soft, warm finish for my wood carvings and sculptures. I used to put too much on (as you said most people do), but learned over time that less is more. The directions on the can say as much, but my pride told me I knew best. And hey, if a little is good, more is better right? Nope, not in this case.
Do you wash the huck towels after buffing the linseed oil or do they get tossed? I guess I had assumed that they’d get crusty which wouldn’t come out with washing but I haven’t tried yet. Thanks.
They wash very easily. And last a long time – years if you are careful.
I use T&T Varnish oil which has pine resin. Love it but I take 3-5 days between coats. I found the key to a great finish on a walnut live slab table was…. wood preparation. Get the surface ultra smooth/ ready via sanding or a good smoother plane job. Then couple of coats of dark wax.
I have become a fan of Grunne Tree Wax made by Grunne Production, Öland, Sweden. Applying this wax is a two man’s job, but for me it is okay to be a masochist + I want to support a small family business!
https://www.earthandflax.com/product-page/viking-purified-linseed-oil-wax
Another candidate in the linseed/wax run off. This is a lot like Allback only made in Pennsylvania by a Scandinavian ex-pat.
Thank you!
Chris, can Tried & True be used over milk paint? I’m working on a Dutch tool chest and I’m wondering what the best topcoat is.
Rob,
Almost anything (including Tried & True) can be used over caesin/milk paint. Even a simple coat of wax. I do a sample board before I commit.
I have used Tried & True Varnish Oil for many years, essentially since it first became available. The “varnish” part of the name refers to pine resin, which is an ingredient in traditional varnish. However, the emphasis should be on the “oil” part. It does not really form a film.
Compared to the “Original”, I think the Varnish Oil is a little less viscous but hardens slightly more. I also have the sense that 2 or 3 coats of the Varnish Oil are plenty. Somehow, the Original tempts me into applying more coats or a finish coat of wax.
I find the Tried & True oil very pleasant to apply. Part of that may be that I often don’t use gloves. Following application of the oil, I just wipe my hands or wash them with soap and warm water.
I really like the look and feel of the oil, but easy maintenance is a huge benefit. Some years ago, a friend came for dinner and put a warm, wet plate on the dining table for quite some time. When she lifted the plate, there was a large white water ring on the table. My poor friend was mortified. Based on her experience with her own antique furniture, she promised to pay for professional refinishing. She was completely confused but greatly relieved when I showed her the like-new table top a day or two later. Scrubbing on a new coat of oil solved the problem in an hour or less.
Like Chris, I wet sand surfaces with the oil and abrasive pads or sand paper. I find it easier to apply the oil generously, let it stand for some time, and then wipe the surface dry. That wastes some of the oil. But I find it much easier than applying a super thin coat in the first place.
Before applying any oil to end grain, it can be useful to prepare the end grain with a wash coat of thinned shellac. Otherwise, some end grain can get noticeably darker than the surrounding wood because it absorbs much more of the oil — especially if you apply the oil liberally.
I use the Varnish Oil on basically all of our wood furniture. Tables greatly benefit from place mats or coasters. But some of the tables get wiped with soapy water every day without any problems. The inevitable dings or stains generally rub out with a new coat of oil. I probably started with a coat every year. Over time, that frequency has declined. I bet I am down to a new coat every 3 to 5 years. Either my family and friends have become more careful, or the additional coats continue to increase protection.
I have some furniture finished with wiping varnish that contains actual varnish. I don’t think that offers much better protection than the Tried & True oil. Repair and maintenance are also quite easy for “real” wiping varnish, but I dislike the toxic fumes during application.
I have used T&T Varnish Oil on a number of projects. Reclaimed pine farm table to live edge walnut side tables. What I have found…. proper wood preparation is the absolute key. Not putting on thin, heating, etc, etc. They all help but wood prep is the key. I typically do 3-5 coats and allow to dry 2-5 days between coats basis temperature in my unheatef shop. I need something stupid simple and I love it. I also actually enjoy re-newing the finish ever few years.
I use a mixture of pure tung oil, Damar resin, gum turpentine, orange oil solvent white beeswax and carnauba wax. I sand to the finished sheen I want and the rub on (and off) 5-6 coats. Works great and is waterproof. The rags harden on exposer to oxygen and are not reusable. I tried using the washing machine. That did not work and just made my wife upset.