I built this bench in 2006 for my first book, “Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use” (Popular Woodworking). It was the first English-style bench I’d ever built or used, so there was a bit of a learning curve, both with its construction and in learning to make the most of it while working on it.
On construction: The bench uses clever engineering to obtain its rigidity. But cleverness doesn’t always win the day. The benchtop started out as a single layer of 2x yellow pine. That proved to be too bouncy in use. So I ended up filling the underside of the benchtop with a second layer of 2x blocking between the “bearers” that support the benchtop.
On use: I had to learn to work with the wide front apron, which is a blessing and a curse.
This particular design is based on several historical benches that I studied, including the version in Peter Nicholson’s “Mechanic’s Companion,” which also provided key construction information. The angled legs and tail vise came from other examples.
This bench is backed against my French bench and I work on it regularly. What’s most surprising about the bench is how little I’ve modified it in 14 years. I added a commercial planing stop, a few holdfast holes and a bench light.
This bench is also featured in the blog entry: “Divorce is Hard on Benches.”
Items shown or mentioned in the video:
- Record planing stop. An antique from Patrick Leach.
- European screws for the leg vise and wagon vise. From Lee Valley.
- Gramercy holdfasts
- Wooden bench dogs from Lie-Nielsen.
- Veritas Hold-Down
— Christopher Schwarz
This is my main bench. I’ve built a lot of furniture of all sizes on it but where it really shined was when I was hanging a bunch of doors in my basement (near the shop). The angled vice is perfect for holding doors for edge planing and cutting in butt hinges.
This is a really great series! It’s great to be able to see the differences between the benches and hear your take on what’s both positive and negative about them.
As previously mentioned, I too enjjoy the music in these. However, in this one in particular, your voice volume falls low enough that the music almost covers it up and makes it difficult to hear. It would be nice if, as the video gets going, the music would fade out entirely, fade in during long pauses in voice, fade in at the end, etc. It would make it easier, for me at least, to concentrate on what’s being said. But maybe that’s just me.
Respectfully,
Merle
I’ll have Katherine redo the audio and duck the music behind the speaking.
Video has been updated with improved audio. Thanks.
Oh, yeah! Much easier to understand what you’re saying. Kudos to Katherine!
My English bench came straight out of Christopher’s book. I had the luxury of making it 12 feet long, which I justified at the time for building small boats which use a lot of long boards. No regrets about that. The angled vice is gone, mostly do to the desire for a chris-cross vice. Again, no regrets. And, since I never built a shelf, the front apron has never gotten in my way. It’s been used every day for over 10 years and I have no desire for any other bench.
This was going to be my question, actually: Is it possible to use a bench crafted crisscross on an angled vice? If not, why? Does it bind?
With so many workbenches is there one you use most? Do you use different benches for different operations?
I use my French bench the most. But that’s because it’s “my” bench. All of these benches do the job.
I am really enjoying this series. Thank you for sharing.
I agree about the apron. It’s great, until it’s not. Especially if you want to move one of the bench dogs up and you have to get under the bench to hit it with a mallet from underneath.
By the way/ in case nobody else has mentioned it, thanks for keeping up the blog, in particular during the shut-down. It’s been a part of my routine in general, and being able to still keep tabs on this has been one of many small sanity savers.
So, yeah, thanks, for doing you’ve been doing anyway, because it helps a lot more right now.
Thanks James. Keeping the blog at full steam is important to us as well….
What are those steel plates for on the rear leg?
“Divorce is Hard on Workbenches.” John had to cut the legs to move the bench. The article has a link to the full story.
How much rigidity would you lose if the apron is 1/2 as wide? It would be easier to clamp things. You could use a sliding deadman to make up somewhat for the fewer pegs.
Some of Hayward’s benches had a small front apron. I haven’t built one, so whatever I said would be just internet-ish.
At about 3:30, you mention that the front apron is a nuisance when you’re trying to clamp things to the benchtop. Have you considered cutting some triangles or circles (using a hole saw) in strategic places on the apron — with the upper edge of the triangle (or hole) flush with the underside of the benchtop? The triangle or circle would need to be just large enough to accommodate the jaw of the intended clamp. The concept is much like a truss bridge: the framework doesn’t need to be solid in order to provide rigidity. I have an “artist’s conception” of this here (bottom photo) — https://gyegreene.blogspot.com/2014/08/workbench-modification.html I ended up doing this (using — I think — a 3″ hole saw). Functional — but a little ugly. –GG