If you own “Campaign Furniture,” you might want to visit my other blog where I posted some free full-size scans of the patterns I use to make the seat and the three “pockets” for the stool.
This is made with 8 oz. 10 oz. oiled latigo leather from the Wickett & Craig tannery. Any thickish leather will work, however. I prefer vegetable-tanned hides because they stretch less and age better.
This stool was – sadly – the last one I’ll be making from this old teak. These were the last three sticks that were 24” long and thick enough to turn the 1-1/4”-diameter legs. So now the smell of beetle dung will subside a little more in my shop.
These stools are a great project, even if you don’t turn. Many broom handles can be pressed into service, and the Lee Valley Campaign Stool Hardware makes it classy.
My next stool is going to use charred ash – some scraps left over from my latest chair.
— Christopher Schwarz
Sometimes it looks as though you are attaching the legs to the pockets. Other times, the legs are attached to the seat. What is the difference? Am I seeing things?
I make them both ways. Depends on what the customers want.
I’ve been thinking of making one of these to take to local sporting events. I think it would draw a lot of inquiries and help me distribute a few business cards. I think I might have just discovered a local source with some decent teak.
I’d skip the teak. I was using teak only to use up expensive scraps. Most examples I have seen in the wild are made from ash or birch. Much less expensive and plenty strong enough.
Thanks Chris!
I am about halfway through with my first campaign stool and I can’t
believe I put it off so long.
The legs are from an ash tree that came down in my front yard, and it
has been doubly interesting applying the lessons from “Chairmaker’s
Notebook” to this project.
Tandy was out of #9 rivets when I was there, but the #12’s they sold
me look like they’ll work fine. They also recommended using neatsfoot
oil as a finish instead of the dye/oil/wax finish that you outline,
for cost/simplicity reasons. It looks O.K., but when I make another
I’ll probably just go straight for the pre-dyed leather. I prefer the
nice “rich antique leather” look of your examples than the “worn
baseball glove” look I am currently getting.
One question I have now that things are progressing is, how do you get
the edges of the leather to looks so nice? My cuts are clean, but they
aren’t smooth and rounded over like I see on yours.
I burnish it with a bit of wood and oil/wax blend (any oil and any wax).
“…going to use _charred_ ash”
Remnants of a prior project that disgusted you? 🙂
Ha – no, actually. It’s a technique from Seth Gould that was in Popular Woodworking. Not to be missed.