Asking a newly minted woodworker to build an Anarchist Tool Chest in five days is about like asking them to grow a tail.
During a five-day class, most students are working on the lid when we run out of time. This is somewhat frustrating for the students and myself because we both want the sucker done and ready to use.
One solution would be to add extra days to the course. But most students are so worn out after five days of high-pressure woodworking that the sixth day would be mostly nap time (we’ve tried it). There are other solutions I’ve pondered, all of which add time or cost or whatever. (This is my polite way of saying that I’m not looking for your suggestion to hold the class on Saturn, where the days are much longer.)
So this summer I have designed some different chests to build in 2015. One of the chests isn’t ready to unveil because it is part of a kooky-go-nuts low-cost new class I’m developing for 2015 (Hint: I hope you like the smell of B.O.).
The other chest is designed and ready to discuss. This chest is basically the same size as the Traveling Anarchist Tool Chest, but it has some simpler joinery and an additional cool feature.
1. Fewer dovetails. Students have dubbed my Anarchist Tool Chest classes as a dovetail death march. I don’t disagree. This new chest replaces the dovetails on both the lower and upper skirts with miters.
For the upper skirt, I think this is an overdue change. The upper skirt is a component of the chest that doesn’t see a lot of wear; it’s rare to see damage to this part of an old chest. Also, the upper skirt is now a three-piece assembly instead of going all the way around the carcase. This speeds assembly up and allows me to add a built-in stop for the lid (more one that in a minute).
Alas, the lower skirt does take a heap of abuse, so I resisted using miters here. Sure, I’ve seen miters survive just fine, but I’ve also seen them fail on old chests. So I’m recommending students add steel corner brackets, another feature I’ve seen on surviving tool chests.
2. A different lid. I love the lid on my old tool chest, but it has a lot of joinery and takes more than a day to build by hand for most people.
So here I’m using a lid design shown both in chests designed by Charles Hayward and Paul Hasluck. The lid is a simple flat panel with the grain running left to right. It is surrounded on three sides by a dovetailed dust seal (just like on my old chest). The flat panel is glued to the front of the dust seal and rabbeted into the ends. Cut nails keep the ends attached to the flat panel and allow it to move, pushing the wood movement to the back of the chest.
The other feature I like is that I have extended the width of the flat panel so it will act as a stop, keeping the lid upright when open. In the current drawing I have it open at 90°, but I can lean it back by planing a bevel on the lid.
This simpler lid also provides a nice canvas for a marquetry panel.
I’m still drawing out the interior of the chest, but it will be much like the Traveling Anarchist Tool Chest. There will be two sliding trays, a rack and two sawtills – one for panel saws and one for backsaws.
3. And finally, I have thinned down some components of this chest to make it lighter in weight, but still plenty strong. The thinner components – the bottoms, skirts and dust seal – are all things I’ve seen on old chests. Nothing new here. I’ve also thinned down the thickness of the carcase so that we can use off-the-rack white pine to save expense and reduce weight.
I’ve loaded my SketchUp drawing into the 3D warehouse. Be warned. This is the metric version. I’m not switching to metric. But I’m just back from England and I’m trying to train my brain to work better in metric. When I finish the Imperial version, I’ll post that as well.
— Christopher Schwarz
Very cool. I like the lid stop.
I hope this new design shaves the time you’re in search of. Your post a few days ago (Jul 27 – “Lots of Chests, Lots of Countries”) included a plate image that really caught my eye. You see, I’m partial to the English philosophy (over your racier Dutch chest), but I’d really like to be able to see into the chest via a slide or drop front. So “Fig. 5 View with Front Open” made me think there must be lots of precedents for this, even though I don’t remember you mentioning it in any of your books. Can you provide us with some more info on the prevalence of English-style chests with removeable fronts? Thanks again!
I have seen very few in the real world. Most of them are figments in Mechanic’s magazines. I’m not a fan.
Hi Chris, do you have a source for the pre-glued panels that you use during your classes?
I’m afraid the schools glue them up.
A-hah! Then I guess I’m ‘going Dutch.’ (Anyone who wants to pay for half the cost of my chest, without enjoying any of the benefits, can send a check to Chris with “for Brian” in the memo line)
Hi,
I’ve wished for a class which focuses on finishing (post lid and upper skirt) the chest and fitting it out, tills, tool holders, drawers, etc.. The jump from a finished shell to a finished tool chest is substantial.
Best,
Rick
Rick,
I wish I had time in my schedule to offer such a class once a year or so. I don’t think the interior guts are all that difficult, but clearing the calendar to focus on them is.
How do you imagine the hinge mounting? If it’s on the lid panel, you may still have a “lock fitting day” twice annually, no? Perhaps a hinge pin through the lid skirt, a’la a joined chest, a’la Follansbee?
The hinge mortises on the lid will indeed be closed and also hold the barrel of the hinge. I’ve done this before for lids. It’s about 5 minutes more work.
The problem with pintle hinges is they don’t seem to last as long as you like.
Note I have updated the SketchUp model. I added the trays and removed a bunch of unnecessary junk in the file. Use the link above in the story or this….
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u576213d5-c914-4588-b972-9396c43a5005
Hmm – a tool chest is on my list for winter projects. I was planning on the Dutch chest, but this one is pretty darn cool. You seem to prefer the Dutch chest though in practical use – so how should one decide which to build?
Both. The Dutch chest is fairly inexpensive if you forego blacksmith made hardware. It is also quick to build.
I’ve not yet attempted either of the Anarchist varieties, but I have made two of the Dutch chests.
Guess I’m the first one interested in a low-cost class. It must be in a state park and involve tents. I’m in. Hotels cost more than courses!