If you know what a sharp tool is and you have basic hand-eye coordination, then you have the skills to do basic leatherwork, such as the seat and strap for this folding campaign stool.
This weekend I built a couple of campaign stools – one in mahogany and one in teak. I can’t show you the teak one, though I wish I could. It’s part of a project in its early stages – new turnings and some new hardware. When it’s all worked out, I’ll definitely post it here.
While making the seats for these stools, I filmed a short video of the process to demonstrate just how simple the leatherworking is. Full plans are available, of course, in the book “Campaign Furniture.”
I also added a carrying strap to these stools. It’s a detail that I meant to add to the stool in the book but forgot. Here are the details.
The strap is 3/4” wide and 48” long. Attach a 3/4” buckle to one end. Loop the strap into the buckle like it’s a belt. Attach the loose end to the leg of the stool using two No. 10 x 1” brass screws and finishing washers.
Put the loop around the feet of the folded-up stool. Make the loop so it’s snug on the feet, but not tight. Mark a hole for the prong. Punch that hole, then add two more holes on either side of that hole (I put them on 1/2” centers). You are done and ready to take your stool to a Night Ranger concert at the roller rink.
— Christopher Schwarz
Eh — needs a Wally bindle.
Good job.
Have you ever thought about making a satchel to carry it?
I forsee one major problem with that strap arrangement – some stumble foot (like me) will walk past, catch their foot in the loop of belting and pull the stool out from under you. Even the cat won’t sit in it – it knows 🙂
You can slide the strap off the legs instead of pushing it up around the hardware. Then it’s not a snare.
So now that you’ve dabbled in leather work, if you had to build the Eastman chair again, do you think you might consider doing the leather upholstery?
Absolutely. I’m considering re-doing all my A&C chairs myself. The guy who made the cushions was not a good listener.
I thought you might. I’ve been considering the same for some of my own projects and have been leaning toward some of the old school upholstery techniques. Modern day foam cushions never seem to hold up as well as a well tied spring cushion and honestly, the techniques really don’t look much more difficult than putting together the seat for the campaign stool. It might be a good topic for a future LAP title in the future if you can find the right author.
Cushions are tough for most out there as they see the JoAnn Fabrics, Michael’s etc as the only foam available. Make sure to check out your local upholstery supply house as they carry much better density foams! If you can’t find local I have ordered from Gary’s Upholstery out of Florida with great success. His site covers all the types makeing life simpler.
I agree, high density most definitely makes a difference and I’ve bought furniture that supposedly had the best available. While those pieces are still usable, they don’t show nearly the durability of a hand tied antique reupholstered piece more than three times their age used under similar conditions. Perhaps more important, a spring cushion can be repaired and brought back to life at similar cost as a good quality foam cushion, which cannot. There are certainly some techniques to learn but the tools and materials are, for the most part, inexpensive and simple to use and what’s more, it’s another skill that’s slowly going the way of so many others.
Can’t disagree, there will always be artisan opportunities. Unfortunately with shop classes out of schools for years now less people in the crafts. I’d be interested in the hand tied process as well.
for your information. the holes in any strap, particuly belts, the hole needs to be oval. If you look at the differance. the buckles tounge lays flatter in a oval hole. A circular hole is more likely to rip. There are oval hole punches used by saddles/Harness makers. You don’t need to buy one, useing a round punch twice, can make the same desired shape. cheers Peter
stropping a utility knife….genius.
I just came across this from http://donsbarn.com/writings/ https://s3.amazonaws.com/theBarn/Articles/Upholstery/Williams%2CDon-Minimally_Intrusive_Upholstery_at_HoR.pdf Now you have me interested in historic upholstery. something else I don’t have time for 🙂
I just finished my first stool. (That didn’t come out right). I used a soft white leather, and I did not treat it at all yet. Are you soaking the lips in water before attaching them to the seat? And what type of oil is recommended? I was thinking of testing just bees wax. I used a zebra wood for legs, and made them with raised bench dogs, spoke shaves and rasps. Very fun project.
Soaking the leather in water briefly (1 min) will make it easier to shape. I usually soak the lips to make my life easier.
Just like with wood, make finish samples. Leather can be easily dyed, shellacked or waxed. Light leather will get darker. Dark leather can get lighter at times.