Click here to see the current classes we offer.
Search this Blog
My Personal Site & Gallery
LostArtPress on InstagramIn St. Paul, Minn., for a three-day seminar with the @mnwoodworkersguild. Humbled both by the St. Paul cathedral next door and the woodworkers before me who have been invited to present this program. #shouldhavegottenahaircutPo Shun Leong. Image 1:“V” CHAIR (2012). This chair is made by pressing laminated plywood in metal moulds to form the seat/back shell and legs,” Po Shun says. “The chair consists of only three components plus the screws to hold it together. It has received a patent, tested for strength and is very comfortable.” Image 2: IMAGINARY ARK (1991). Koa, chestnut burl and maple. 22" high. The shape represents an imaginary ancient ark. “I have two sides to creativity. One is to do with designing chair forms with the utmost simplicity: fine lines and nothing that can be taken away or added. My minimalist chairs take a lot of thought, gestation prototypes, time and revisits. The return on the investment (if any) is paid back by the accomplishment of finally having gotten there. The other side of creativity that I enjoy is about spontaneity where anything goes and this is where the public knows of my art.” — from “The Difference Makers” by Marc Adams @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking #The_Difference_MakersRecommending wood for a plane blank is not as simple as mentioning oak, ash, hard maple, or beech. Any of these is likely to be a good choice, but there may be enough variation within any species to make one particular plank less desirable than another. Durability and stability are the basic criteria. Maple and beech are fairly consistent and often make good choices for a first plane. Carefully scrutinize your choice of oak or ash. Look at the end grain: closely packed growth rings may indicate denser wood with better wear qualities. Pecan, hickory, mulberry, and Osage orange are other domestic hardwoods that have been used successfully. Finally, choose wood that is free of defects like checks or knots. Both indicate a loss of strength and stability. Walnut or cherry work well for larger planes, but are too light for smaller planes. These woods wear rapidly and will need a sole—a complete covering for the bottom of the plane—of a harder wood, if the plane will be used regularly. Alternatively, you may inlay a small wear plate, “an insert,” just ahead of the throat opening, where most wear occurs. With that said, I have come across walnut and cherry planks that had exceptional density. They would have made fine planes of any size. — from “Making and Mastering Wood Planes” by David Finck. #Making_and_Mastering_Wood_Planes
- ‘Welsh Stick Chairs’ Available in the U.K. blog.lostartpress.com/2019/11/14/wel… https://t.co/Aas4ddX9YQ 1 day ago
- Who is the Father? blog.lostartpress.com/2019/11/13/who… https://t.co/llWwcAQ4zK 2 days ago
- RT @cohornjeff7: @RudeMechanic @fwmagazine 8 seasons spent in the octagon. I think I know how to draw one. https://t.co/KRMgRMkpXm 3 days ago