John - Hayward's diagram makes ramping the hinge mortises more logical now than when it first seemed, specifically for inseting the cupboard door in the frame. This sort of construction is an unusual application for butt hinges in modern cabinetry, though, which typically hinges the door on a face frame. In the case of hinging the door directly to the cabinet side (so-called "European Cabinets"), one would typically see a no-mortise hinge or a european hinge (the kind where you must cut a round hole with a Forstener bit on the inside face of the door).

It still seems a bit odd to use this type of mortise when you wish to have the hinge knuckle extending beyond the face of the cabinet and the door flush with the case side.

David,

To understand what you do, you split the distance of the hinge at the barrel and add that to the thickness of the leaf to get the mortis depth?

John

John - Yes. The simplest way to do this is to pick up a few thick plane shavings from the floor, put them between the hinge leaves (adding enough so that the hinge leaves are parallel), and measure the overall thickness of the hinge/shaving sandwich. Divide this in half, and that's your mortise depth for both the door and the case.

Realize, of course, that this method abslutely requires that the hinge barrell be outside the case (that's the usual method on antique furniture).

I have seen that done before and but I never found out why. It makes sense now seening that drawing. Do you know if the book is still in print and were I could get a copy?

Cheers
Jiddo

I think the book is out of print but available at used book sources and amazon. Make sure you look for the "Capentry for Beginners" because the other Hayward books are very expensive.

Good luck

John